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they took us to the exquisite garden (a green piece from
Europe) and showed us the halls, and many bureaus that
had engraved ceilings which are decorated with bronze,
marble and other decorative stones. I may not be able to
give an accurate description of this wonderful place and
its exterior view. But I can say most emphatically that it
occupies a special position among the architectural master
pieces of which I have talked in this book.
Our visit to the farm of the king’s son, Prince Abdulaziz
bin Fahd where the celebrations on the occasion of
the Centenary had been organized have left lasting
unforgettable impressions on us. This part of an old
settlement in the desert that is at a distance of 40 minutes
from Riyadh by car is one of the landmarks of the capital.
To this place official delegations, heads of state and VIP’s
are invited. Inside the vast land that is surrounded by a
mud wall, the traditional Royal Palace was rebuilt together
with a high-rising observation tower. It is a true copy of the
Masmak Castle in its actual dimensions, a bedouin camp,
the ancient market, the school, the well, the plaza paved
with stones. All the buildings were built from traditional
materials, i.e. a mixture of mud and straw, according to
the traditional method. The internal walls were covered
with a thick layer of gypsum on which geometric shapes
were engraved. The internal courtyard was surrounded
by a row of columns, in the middle of which there was a
small well. Between the spaces separating the doors there
were hung guns, swords, spears and shields. On the stones
were printed pictures of King Abdulaziz together with
members of his family and his followers.
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At Al-Masmak Castle we found, with the assistance of
the owners of the place, hidden passages in its outside walls
which were three meters thick. When sitting on pillows in
one of the many bedrooms, we felt a bit cold, although the
outside temperature was less than 20 degrees centigrade.
In the old times, people avoided heat by applying certain
techniques in building their residence, which techniques
had been applied hundreds of years ago (thick mud walls,
absence of windows, arrangement of rooms in one row
and small triangular openings that produced effective
ventilation).
We entered the barns of small camels and tasted their
warm fresh milk. Then we returned to the farm and rode
on white camels and royal horses. Later on, they offered
popular dishes which were prepared in front of us. They
led to the narrow alleys of the market where craftsmen
practiced their profession just as their ancestors did in the
recent past. We saw how they made baskets, decorated the
sheaths of daggers with a silver wire, embroidered women’s
cloaks with golden strings, weaved camel wool, made a
thin cloth on primitive machines and traded ancient items,
grains and spices. On top of that, they enacted before us
a scene of a typical dispute between a buyer and a seller.
Finally, they gave pus presents which they had produced
manually. Then, passing by narrow alleys, we got to a well
where two donkeys were extracting water with wooden
buckets and ropes. At last, at the only classroom in the
school, young actors performed a scene showing how
pupils were previously taught and punished.
Towards the evening, the major activity began. The
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guests were seated on chairs under a sail umbrella. Tens
of carpets were spread on the stones of the plaza before
the palace. Suddenly a group of horsemen appeared
accompanied by the beating of drums: the men were riding
white camels, their daggers stuck in their belts, swords
on their shoulders, their leader in the front carrying a
green banner. They made a few rounds, regrouped and
left. This was followed by typical southern dances to
the accompaniment of singing and the beating of drums,
reminding us of African dancing. This was followed by
dancers in colorful apparel representing the central parts
of the Kingdom. Dancing was so inviting that some
ambassadors joined in and additional swords were brought
to them for that purpose.
Night engulfed us quickly, which is what normally
happens in the desert. A cold wind blew gently and the
mud royal palace was lighted. The full moon hung over the
teeth of the observation tower and lighted the tops of palm
trees. The beating of drums began to subside. Suddenly I
felt a kind of ecstatic pleasure, as though I was free from
time and space restrictions. I cannot explain what the
nature of this feeling was, but I shall always treasure it in
my memory.
There was, naturally, lunch and dinner. Tables were full
of various types of dishes. Everything was just perfect and
beautiful. In the bus we sat slightly tired, but grateful for
this wonderful day.
The international tourism industry in the Kingdom is
still in its first stage of development (with the exception
of tourism links with Arab countries). However, the
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government has undertaken to develop this field of human
activity in the next few years. Nonetheless, I have found
here the most appropriate conditions for curious diplomats.
My husband and I have traveled extensively and seen
almost all its provinces. We still remember in particular
Assir area, a large area in the south west of the country,
where one can see the chain of great mountains (up to
height of 3.5 thousand meters) that are hidden in the layer
of clouds. We saw the impenetrable forests, the fertile
valleys, the blooming fields, he narrow, rocky mountain
passes and the artificial lakes. This was a charming place,
a modest climate, rare but abundant rain that fills the deep
valleys with rushing streams. This area of 450 thousand
hectares starting from the Red Sea was declared a national
public park that is preserved by the State. Here grow a
group of unique plants that are on the verge of extinction
and birds feel completely at ease.
When at Assir, it is difficult to imagine that one is
relatively close to a desert area where there is no water or
life. There are artificial gradations of land that surround the
slopes of mountains, a lush green place whose plantations
climb up towards the summits and dig their roots in any
small area between rocks where a small piece of soil exists,
blooming guava and the thorny cactus fruits. Here, then,
are exotic trees covered with a thick bark that looks like
a hippopotamus. Other trees have thick leaves that have
long interlaced thorns that constitute areas that cannot
be traversed. On the graded descent and on the mountain
slopes are spread among the palm tree, fruit and vegetable
orchards, as well as farm fields, small villages whose
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