12
Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s
Spouse
there were lamps in the shape of glittering vases on top
of which are laid umbrellas veiled with cloth from which
soft light emanated. On the wall that immediately faces
the door, there were four water-colour pictures, the first
representing the founder of the State, King Abdulaziz
bin Abdul Rahman Al Saud, the second representing the
present monarch, king Fahd bin Abdulaziz; the other
two represented his brothers, Crown Prince, Head of the
National Guards, Prince Abdullah and the Second Deputy
President of the Council of Ministers, Minister of Defense
and Aviation and Inspector General of the Kingdom of
Saudi Arabia. As we found out later on, these pictures
are indispensable decorations of the front of government
departments, photography saloons and even barber
saloons. Saudis appreciate and love their leaders.
There rose in the air a slightly intoxicating odor of
incense and oriental perfumes. There were no windows.
However, there rose high in the corners of the hall within
metal enameled barrels ever green trees. It seemed to me
strange, at the time, that they could grow so well without
day light, but later on, I was no longer surprised to see
dense plants and decorative trees.
One is dazzled to see the entrances of the major
government offices, the commercial centers, the stores
and private houses, not to mention the flower shops, which
abound in Riyadh.
A swarthy Bedouin wearing a white tunic (dashdasha), a
long robe, offered us Arabian coffee, which turned out to
be quite different from traditional coffee. It is a hot and
almost transparent dark yellow beverage from which
13
Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s Spouse
emanates the aroma of cardamom. Sipping Arabian coffee
has a special tradition. It is poured into small cups from a
special coffee pot (della) made of copper or silver and has
a long mouth. Coffee is prepared on coal and hot ashes.
The one who pours the coffee holds in his right hand up
to eight cups piled into one another. Each is filled up to
the middle and is offered to the guests, beginning with
the most senior and respected one. Declining to drink
coffee is unethical; the protocol of offering this beverage
is primarily a sign of welcome. If one does not wish to
partake of more than one cup, one has to put one’s index
finger over the top of the cup and shake it from one side to
the other before returning it to the coffee server. It is not
proper to put the empty cup on the table.
Finally, the conversation came to an end, the baggage
was delivered and for the first time we plunged in the open
and mellow night air. To say that it is mellow is true but
with a difference. In early April, even late at night, the
weather in the suburbs of Riyadh would be sweltering
by our standards. As we found later, the temperature was
about 32 to 34 Celsius. At the time, however, I felt it was
much
higher than that, because I was not used to it.
The convoy, which consisted of three automobiles,
proceeded to Riyadh, which is splendid in its reflection
of the radiant orange light of high lifted road lamps. Two
rows of carefully trimmed dense trees could be seen along
the road. These were among the first strong impressions
that surprised me in Riyadh: such dense green in the heart
of the desert! Later on, we got used to seeing all cities,
even those in the driest regions of the country, planted