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Northern Peru: the Endemic-rich North and Cordillera Blanca – trip report June 2013
By Eduardo Ormaeche
Rufous Flycatcher (photo Trevor Hardaker)
SUMMARIZED ITINERARY
Day 1, June 4
Arrival in Lima and transfer to our hotel in Lima
Day 2, June 5
Explore Pucusana and the coast south of Lima. Transfer to Lima
Day 3, June 6
Explore Lomas de Lachay and the coast north of Lachay
Day 4, June 7
Drive to Huaraz and birding in the High Andes. Overnight Huaraz
Day 5, June 8
Explore the Polylepis forest and the Portachuelo mountain pass. Overnight Huaraz
Day 6, June 9
Explore Carhuaz and drive to the coast
Day 7, June 10
Drive to Trujillo and explore the arid valleys north of Trujillo. Overnight Trujillo
Day 8, June 11
Explore Sinsicap and then drive to Chiclayo. Overnight Chiclayo
Day 9, June 12
Explore Bosque de Pómac and drive to Quebrada Limón. Overnight Camping
Day 10, June 13
Explore Quebrada Limón in the morning and transfer to Salas
Day 11, June 14
Explore the Porculla mountain pass in the morning and drive to Jaén. Explore the Seminario road
Day 12, June 15
Explore Tamborapa in the morning. Visit the Huembo feeder station in the afternoon. Overnight Pomacochas
Day 13, June 16
Explore the San Lorenzo road to look for Pale-billed Antpitta. Overnight Pomacochas
Day 14-16, June 17-19
We spent three nights and four days at the Long Whiskered Owlet (LWO) Lodge in the Abra Patricia Mountains
Day 17, June 20
Explore Afluente. Stop along the Rioja lowlands and Visit the Wakanki feeders. Overnight Wakanki
Day 18, June 21
Explore Wakanki steep trails in the morning, looking for Fiery-throated Fruiteater, and the Moyobamba grasslands in the afternoon. Overnight Wakanki
Day 19, June 22
A final morning around Moyobamba and drive to Tarapoto. Overnight Tarapoto
Day 20, June 23
Explore the Tarapoto tunnel and visit the Koepcke’s hermit feeder station. Explore the dry area of the Huallaga Valley, drive back to Moyobamba. Overnight Wakanki
Day 21, June 24
A full day birding between Moyobamba and Abra Patricia. Overnight Pomacochas
Day 22, June 25
Explore the Utcubamba Valley. Try for the Buff-fronted Owl. Overnight Chillo Lodge
Day 23, June 26
Drive to Leymebamba. Visit the Kentipata feeder station and the Atuen Valley. Overnight Leymebamba
Day 24, June 27
Explore the Black Mud Pass and drive to Balsas. Overnight Balsas
Day 25, June 28
Explore Balsas and Hacienda Limón. Drive to Cajamarca. Overnight Cajamarca
Day 26, June 29
Explore Sangal canyon and the Gavilan mountain pass in the afternoon. Overnight Cajamarca
Day 27, June 30
Fly to Lima and connect with international departures
NORTHERN PERU SYSTEMATIC LIST, JUNE 2013
Taxonomy: IOC, International Ornithological Congress, 5.1
Abbreviations:
(H) Heard only
(E) Country endemic
TINAMIFORMES
Tinamidae
Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii One individual was seen at Lomas de Lachay. Here the subspecies oustaleti
Little Tinamou (H) Crypturellus soui This species was heard only at Wakanki. Here the subspecies nigriceps
Pale-browed Tinamou (H) Crypturellus transfasciatus This near-endemic species was heard only at Quebrada Limón. The species is listed as near-threatened.
Tataupa Tinamou (H) Crypturellus tataupa This species was heard in Jaén and Moyobamba. Here the subspecies inops. “Tataupa” means “house” in Guaraní (a Paraguayan Indian language); the birds are often found near houses and haciendas.
ANSERIFORMES
Anatidae
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Always a pleasure to see. One of the classic birds of the Andes. A pair seen along the Utcubamba River on the way to Leymebamba. Here the subspecies colombiana
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera These beautiful birds were seen at high elevations.
Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides Seen at Conococha Lake. Here the subspecies alticola
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera Seen along the coastal ponds south of Lima. Here the subspecies orinoma
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis Seen south of Lima. Here the subspecies rubirostris
Yellow-billed Teal Anas flavirostris Seen at Conococha Lake. Here the subspecies oxyptera
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Seen at Conococha Lake. Here the subspecies spinicauda
Puna Teal Anas puna Seen at Conococha Lake
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Seen on the coastal ponds south of Lima
Masked Duck Nomonyx dominicus Great views of this duck, seldom seen in Peru, in a small pond near Moyobamba
GALLIFORMES
Cracidae
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Seen well on the way to Moyobamba
Andean Guan Penelope montagnii Two birds were seen well before dark along the Atuen Valley.
White-winged Guan (E) Penelope albipennis Amazing views of at least six different birds at Quebrada Frejolillo, one of the few places on earth where this bird can be seen in the wild. It was discovered in the 19th century and rediscovered in 1977 by John O’Neill and Gustavo Del Solar. The species is listed as critically endangered.
Wattled Guan (H) Aburria aburri This species was heard only at the LWO Lodge. It is listed as near-threatened.
SPHENISCIFORMES
Spheniscidae
Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti A family of this near-endemic species was seen nicely at the stakeout in Pucusana. The species is listed as vulnerable. Named after the 19th century German naturalist and traveler Alexander von Humboldt. The cold marine current that flows along the coast of Peru and Chile is also named after him.
PODICIPEDIFORMES
Podicipedidae
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Seen on the ponds north of Chiclayo
Great Grebe Podiceps major Seen on the coastal ponds south of Lima
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps Seen on the coastal ponds south of Lima
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland Seen on the coastal ponds south of Lima. Here the subspecies chilensis
Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis Seen at Conococha Lake
PELECANIFORMES
Threskiornithidae
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi Seen along the southern coast of Lima and at higher elevations
Ardeidae
Fasciated Tiger Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum Seen along the Utcubamba River
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Seen south of Lima
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common throughout the tour
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Seen north of Chiclayo
Snowy Egret Egretta thula A few during the tour
Pelecanidae
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus Several seen along the coast of Lima. This near-endemic species is listed as near-threatened.
SULIFORMES
Sulidae
Peruvian Booby Sula variegata Several seen along the coast of Lima. A near-endemic species
Phalacrocoracidae
Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi Nice views from the stakeout at Pucusana. The species is listed as near-threatened..
Guanay Cormorant Leucocarbo bougainvillii Seen on the boat ride in Pucusana. The species is listed as near-threatened. Its name comes from guano, which refers to the bird excrements used as fertilizer. From 1849 to 1870 guano was the most effective fertilizer in the world, and Peru was the largest producer of guano, exporting between 10 and 12 million tons just to the United Kingdom.
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Several seen along the coast of Lima
ACCIPITRIFORMES
Cathartidae
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Several seen during the tour
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Only one seen soaring low above the Rioja grasslands
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa One seen at Quebrada Frejolillo
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus Two birds seen in the Atuen Valley, which is one of the few reliable locations to see Andean Condor in humid montane forest in Peru. The species is listed as near-threatened. This is the national bird of Chile, Ecuador, Colombia, and Bolivia.
King Vulture (photo Niall Perrins)
Pandionidae
Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus One seen near the ponds of Rioja
Accipitridae
Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii Seen on the way to Olmos
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Seen at the lowest parts of the San Lorenzo road
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Seen on the way to Moyobamba
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus One seen well in the marshes near Chimbote
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis One juvenile seen in the paddy fields near Rioja
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Seen near Bosque de Pómac and along the paddy fields of Bagua
Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Common around Tarapoto. Placed in the genus Rupornis
Harris’s Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus One seen south of Lima
Variable Hawk Geranoaetus polyosoma We saw both forms, the one called Red-backed Hawk near Bosque de Pómac and the form of the High Andes called Puna Hawk. Placed in the genus Geranoaetus
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Several were seen at Lomas de Lachay.
GRUIFORMES
Heliornithidae
Sungrebe Heliornis fulica Unfortunately we had a glimpse only along the Río Romero near Rioja.
Rallidae
Russet-crowned Crake Laterallus viridis Brief views of this secretive species near Moyobamba
Chestnut-headed Crake (H) Anurolimnas castaneiceps Almost! One heard very close near Tarapoto
Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus One along the Río Romero near Rioja
Spotted Rail Pardirallus maculatus Seen at the paddy fields north of Jaén
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus Seen near Carhuaz. Here the subspecies tschudii
Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Seen at the ponds south of Lima
Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca A few seen south of Lima
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea Two seen well at Conococha Lake
Aramidae
Limpkin Aramus guarauna Seen along the Río Romero near Rioja
CHARADRIIFORMES
Burhinidae
Peruvian Thick-knee Burhinus superciliaris At least a dozen were seen along the main road during our drive to Barranca after our visit to Lomas de Lachay.
Haematopodidae
Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater Two birds seen well in Pucusana
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Seen at Puerto Viejo beach
Recurvirostridae
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Seen south of Lima and north of Chiclayo
Charadriidae
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens We saw two birds near the archeological site of Chan Chan. This is the first time I have seen this species at sea level. The Field Guide of the Birds of Peru suggests that they are rare along the coast. Others were seen above Leymebamba at the usual 3600 meters above sea level.
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus Seen in the marshes near Chimbote
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris One seen along the Huallaga River
Puna Plover Charadrius alticola Seen at Conococha Lake
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus Seen at the marshes near Chimbote
Tawny-throated Dotterel Oreopholus ruficollis Four birds were seen near Conococha Lake. This is the first time I’ve seen this austral migrant at such high elevations.
Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus One seen along the Utcubamba River
Jacanidae
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana A few on the paddy fields near Rioja
Thinocoridae
Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus Seen at Lomas de Lachay. Here the subspecies cuneicauda
Scolopacidae
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Seen at Puerto Viejo
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca Seen at the marshes near Chimbote
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Seen along the Utcubamba River
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Seen at Pucusana
Laridae
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Seen at Puerto Salaverry near Trujillo
Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus Seen at Conococha Lake
Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Seen at Puerto Viejo
Grey Gull Leucophaeus modestus Seen at Puerto Viejo
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Seen at the shores of the Costa Verde Lima beach
Belcher’s Gull Larus belcheri Common along the coast. Named after Sir Edward Belcher, British naval explorer of the Pacific coast of the Americas
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex One seen along the Huallaga River
Inca Tern Larosterna inca A near-endemic species, listed as near-threatened
COLUMBIFORMES
Columbidae
Rock Dove Columba livia Common
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Seen at Abra Patricia
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Seen at Abra Patricia and the Porculla mountain pass
Maranon Pigeon Patagioenas oenops Seen at Tingorbamba at our usual spot and then others above Balsas. This near-endemic species is listed as vulnerable.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Common at Lomas de Lachay
West Peruvian Dove Zenaida meloda Common
Plain-breasted Ground Dove Columbina minuta Brief views at Quebrada Upaquihua near Tarapoto
Ecuadorian Ground Dove Columbina buckleyi This near-endemic species was seen near Bagua and at Hacienda Limón. Here the subspecies dortsi
Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Common around Moyobamba
Croaking Ground Dove Columbina cruziana Common at Lomas de Lachay and other locations
Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa Seen at Tamborapa and Moyobamba
Bare-faced Ground Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Seen at Lomas de Lachay and Balsas
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Several seen along the Utcubamba Valley
OPISTHOCOMIFORMES
Opisthocomidae
Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin Seen along the Chazuta road not far from the Puente Colombia near Tarapoto
Hoatzin (photo Ken Logan)
CUCULIFORMES
Cuculidae
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common in the Moyobamba and Tarapoto lowlands
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Common on the west slope and in the Marañón Valley
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Seen on the way back from Tamborapa
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana A few seen at Afluente
STRIGIFORMES
Strigidae
Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba Seen around Wakanki
West Peruvian Screech Owl Megascops roboratus One seen well at Los Faiques. A near-endemic species
Koepcke’s Screech Owl (E) Megascops koepckeae Seen at Chillo Lodge and above Leymebamba
Vermiculated Screech Owl Megascops vermiculatus One individual above Wakanki
White-throated Screech Owl (H) Megascops albogularis Heard only at the LWO Lodge
Rufous-banded Owl (H) Strix albitarsis Heard only at the LWO Lodge
Band-bellied Owl Pulsatrix melanota Seen at Wakanki
Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Seen at Wakanki
Pacific Pygmy Owl Glaucidium peruanum Great views of this near-endemic species at Bosque de Pómac and Balsas
Long-whiskered Owlet (E) Xenoglaux loweryi Due to bad weather this most-wanted species was denied us during our first attempt, and only Lisl managed to have a great view during the second try down the Owlet trail. The species is listed as endangered.
Long-whiskered Owlet (photo Alan van Norman)
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Common north of Chiclayo and around Bosque de Pómac
Buff-fronted Owl (H) Aegolius harrisii Unfortunately this was denied us on this trip. It was heard but was not interested in answering our tape.
CAPRIMULGIFORMES
Steatornithidae
Oilbird Steatornis caripensis Several at Puente Quisquirumi not far from Moyobamba
Caprimulgidae
Sand-colored Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris Seen in Moyobamba city at dusk hawking for insects below the street lights and also along the Huallaga Valley at daytime
Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis Seen at Los Faiques at dusk
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Seen around Wakanki
Anthony’s Nightjar Nyctidromus anthonyi Seen at Quebrada Frejolillo above Olmos. A near-endemic species
APODIFORMES
Apodidae
Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila Seen on the way to Pomacochas
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Seen at Balsas and on the way to Moyobamba
Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura Seen around Wakanki
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus Seen at the Tarapoto tunnel
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus Seen well at both Quebrada Sangal and Llanganuco Lakes
Neotropical Palm Swift Tachornis squamata Seen at Wakanki
Trochilidae
Koepcke’s Hermit (E) Phaethornis koepckeae This species, listed as near-threatened, was seen at the Tarapoto feeders. The bird is named after Maria Koepcke, a German ornithologist, explorer, and curator of the museum of Lima, who wrote the Dep. of Lima field guide and died in a plane crash with 92 others in 1971. One of the few survivors was her 16-year-old daughter, brought back in a rescue mission. For Peru she described three new species to science and 13 new subspecies.
Black-throated Hermit Phaethornis atrimentalis Seen at the Wakanki feeders
Grey-chinned Hermit Phaethornis griseogularis Seen at the Porculla Pass. Here the subspecies porcullae
Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae Seen below the LWO Lodge
Grey-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis Seen at the feeders of Wakanki and Tarapoto
White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Seen at the feeders of Wakanki and Tarapoto
Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans The classic bully of the Andes
Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus Seen at the Huembo feeders
Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae Seen at the Wakanki feeders
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Seen at the Wakanki feeders
Violet-headed Hummingbird Klais guimeti Seen around the garden in Wakanki but not on the feeders
Rufous-crested Coquette Lophornis delattrei Seen at the Wakanki feeders. One of my favorites
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus Seen at Wakanki
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata Seen at the Wakanki and Tarapoto feeders
White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus Great views at the Wakanki feeders
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