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10th International Scientific Conference

“Science and Higher Education in Function of Sustainable Development”

06 – 07 October 2017, Mećavnik – Drvengrad, Užice, Serbia



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CULINARY TRADITION PART OF THE TOURISM PRODUCTS IN MONTENEGRO
Dr Vesna Vujačić1, Dr Greta Krešić2 Dr Marija Bodroža Solarov3

1University of Montenegro, Faculty of Tourism and Hotel management Kotor, Montenegro

e-mail vuvesna@ac.me



2 University of Rijeka, Faculty of Tourism and Hospitality Managemen Opatija, Croatia

e-mail gretak@fthm.hr



3 University of Novi Sad, Institute of Food Technology Novi Sad, Serbia

e-mail marija.bodroza@fins.uns.ac.rs



Apstract: When we talk about tourism in Montenegro, we notice that it has become more significant and more famous as a touristic destination in the last few years. General touristic offer includes also the food, more precisely gastronomic products which help to develop gastronomic tourism. Catering kitchen and Montenegro days, in addition to contemporary trends, relies mainly on the dishes that were prepared for centuries in the individual regions and Montenegro. The gastronomic tradition of Montenegro is diverse, wide range of flavors from the Mediterranean, across the lake to the mountain cuisine. About gastronomic tradition of Montenegro there is little written evidence. Part of this heritage is transmitted orally and part is written by a small number of authors.Goal of this work is to discover how important gastronomy is in developing destination, to examine the relationship between food, destinations and tourists. The preparation of this paper led to the conclusion that, in Montenegro tourism as an important economic sector which does not have a seasonal character. The development of gastronomy and culinary tourism can make the tourist season last for 365 days.
Keywords: gastronomic tradition, Montenegro, tourism.


1.INTRODUCTION
Gastronomy is an interdisciplinary science that deals with the production, serving and decoration of dishes that are served directly to the guest [1]. Gastronomy is closely related to the achievements of other sciences such as medicine, nutrition-food hygiene, food technology, and so on. For a long time, there is a need to clarify the concept, origin, development, science and art of gastronomy. The narrow views, as well as the lack of higher education institutions where gastronomy is studied, led this discipline into a subordinate position in relation to other disciplines and sciences. Gastronomy has existed since ancient times, although it inexplicably late found a place among other sciences. Aleksandr Baltazara Gremio de la Reinier is considered the founder of contemporary gastronomy in France (XIX century) [2]. Several decades later, more precisely in 1835, the French Academy included the word »gastronomie« in the French dictionary. Soon, the word gastronomy becomes popular, perhaps due to a very general description of its contents, which enabled its use in accordance with the demands and intentions of the author [3]. The oldest book entitled Cookery book was issued in France during the reign of Charles V in the first half of the 16th century, and the oldest culinary document Viander dates back to 1490 [4].

Food and nutrition are important markers of the cultural identity of a region. Food in tourism becomes a cultural artifact that connects a place and identity, material and symbolic - intertwined with the social, cultural and natural characteristics of a particular climate. Therefore, local gastronomic traditions occupy a prominent place in the creation of a tourist product and the image of a destination.

Tradition is a part of cultural heritage that is transmitted from generation to generation. Its greatest importance is the preservation of the identity of one nation and the identity of an individual as a part of that nation. Tradition and customs penetrate into almost all spheres of human existence: birth, marriage, patron saint's day, dressing, housing, diet.

Gastronomy and tourism have a lot in common, so the development of one without another is almost unimaginable. Through various gastronomic delicacies, we can familiarize the guest or the tourist with the delicacies that are autochthonous for the place that we present. Through old autochthonous dishes, they can see what life was in that area many years ago, what kind of foods they used and what ways of food preparation they knew, the variety of plants and animal species in that area, both in the villages and in the cities, continental and coastal, every dish can tell a historical and cultural story [5].



Thought assumptions which were starting point in writing the work:

- Food in tourism has a dual role, it represents an essential need for every trip, while on the other hand it is an attraction and main reason for travelling (gastroturism)

- Gastronomy is very strongly associated with a particular locality and it is very important in defining the image of the destination.

- To make local gastronomy attractive to tourists, it is necessary to create a strong link between gastronomy, experience and destinations for tourists, instead of just developing food products based on the culture and tradition of the destination.

National gastronomy and food are an opportunity to diversify and revitalize the tourist offer, in order to achieve the economic growth of the local community in a quality way, and promote the need for inclusion a wide range of participants (food producers, chooks, shops, markets etc.).



Food Tourism is a form of selective cultural tourism that is becoming generally more popular in most tourist countries. Some call it Gourmet Tourism, some Gastronomy Tourism, and some Culinary Tourism. Food tourism refers to touristsvisits to food producers, food festivals, restaurants and specific locations, where food tasting and food experiences are one of the main motives for traveling. This form of tourism is based on the interconnection of gastronomy and a tourism destination, since the destination offers food, drinks, recipes as well as the overall context and cultural framework of food habits characteristic of a particular destination. Gastronomic identity, as part of an intangible cultural heritage, if well designed and included in the tourist offer, can improve the image of the destination, thereby making its tourism more competitive. Food tourism is becoming more and more popular throughout the world and is one of the economic sectors that are currently expanding. In the last ten years, there are more and more tourists who, besides their personal cultural experiences, are interested in the local gastronomic offer.

Many tourist countries are recognizable by the richness of their gastronomic offer: Italy is recognizable by pizza and various types of pasta, Turkey by inevitable kebab, Spain by paella, and Japan by sushi. French, Mexican, Chinese cuisine have long been recognized as cultural categories and these destinations attract a large number of tourists, regardless of whether food is the primary or secondary motive for their trip.

2.OLD MONTENEGRO AND GASTRONOMIC TRADITION
There are few written traces about gastronomy and hospitality industry in Montenegro. Much of this heritage was transmitted orally, and only one part was written by a small number of authors.

An important aspect in the hospitality industry are both welcoming and kindness, while these manners are highly value in the ordinary life. It is known that the Montenegrins are good and careful hosts. When a guest is awaited, as a sign of welcome, according to the old custom, they open the gate widely. They offer a guest the best food and drink they have at home, place him at the best place at the table and try to make the time he spents in their home as pleasant as possible. There were several markets in Old Montenegro: Rijeka Crnojevića, Prentina Glavica in Bjelopavlići and Vir, Kotor, Budva and Risan. The following trade was carried out on these markets: In Kotor, Montenegrins bought postav (cloth), peasant shoes, scarves, belts, rasha for trastrousers (čakšire), buckles, yarn and other thing, and they bought salt the most, then brandy, and when the harvest was poor, they bought corn, a little oil, rice, sugar and coffee, pots and tins. Brđani mostly traded with Spuža and Podgorica, and little with Onogošt, and Moračani traded with Kolašin“ [6].

Old Montenegro consisted of four nahijas: Katunska, Lješanska, Riječka and Crmnička were in hilly, hardly accessible areas and it was turned to Skadar Lake. In these areas, the inhabitants were mainly engaged in cattle breeding but also in river and lake fishing. All in all, the kitchen was very poor. ,“ If you marvel at their paths, their arid land and fruitless hills, and on which you can not see nothing but stone, they will say to you: if it was different it would be called MonteWhite, not MonteNegro,“ [7].

As the nature was not inclined to them, the inhabitants were using everything that was edible from of the scarce flora and fauna: chicory, nettle, red-root amaranth, fennel, vine leaf, thistle and many others that were eaten with little fat, just for a mere survival. They also consumed sheep meat, and in a small, arable part of the soil, they would sow corn, oats or rye, than collard greens, cabbage and onion. They have sheep and goats, since their main nutrition is milk and cheese. They make clothes from the wool, and meat was partly consumed and partly sold dried in Kotor. They also bought many goats and sheep in Herzegovina and Boka which they sold in Kotor, hence they were mostly exported to Venice. Fishing in Skadar Lake was very rich, lots of fish were spent in the country but also sold in the coast. The lake was full of fish, are the most famous were trouts, eels and bleaks. Of the poultry, they only had hens and of the game they had rabbits and grouses and in the winter they hunted wild ducks on the lake [8].

Speaking of food and nutrition in Montenegrins, Pavle Rovinski states that bread is the basic food and that Montenegrins give him the greatest respect. It can often be heard, says Rovinski, that Montenegrin tells somebody - I swear in the bread that I ate with you-or, when addressing to the guest, he says- Come in and let’s eat some bread. Bread, as a basic foodstuff in Montenegro, is made of: rye, barley, wheat, buckwheat and corn. Rovinski emphasizes that priority is given to corn bread. The bread is obtained from corn flour as follows: “Put corn flour in a large dough tray with little salt, and when yeast works, bake in an earthenware dish under the bell. While hot this bread is very tasty, especially with cream. Soon, it hardens, decays and loses its taste” [9].

There were not many kinds of soup and stew in Montenegrins. According to Rovinj, it was the last dish for them. There were more kinds of soups and stews in Podgorica, Bar and Rijeka. Their stews were heavily browned with flour, onion, paprika and usually spiced with vinegar, and served regularly when they cooled down and always at the end of the meal.

The meat was prepared in a simple way, whether it was cooked, baked or dried. Rovinski states that Montenegrins use milk and dairy products a lot. They also use a lot of eggs too. It is interesting to note that Montenegrins most often bake eggs in hot ash, they rarely cook them.

Speaking about the desserts, he points out that there were them, but not enough, in Crmnica and Riječka nahija, near Bar and Ulcinj, where quince and fig jam was made as well as various marmalade, and in Podgorica qurabiyas, biscuit fried in oil with lots of sugar, sweet pies made of leafy dough, halva, baklava and others. They made wine from grapes, and also made brandy from grapes and all other fruits. In many houses, there were large barrels of wine and brandy [10].

Through national gastronomy traditions, religions, customs, traditions, history and lifestyle are manifested. Countries with a rich tradition give great importance to the kitchen as a part of civilian heritage. The kitchen also has a significant social mission. Continuing the culinary tradition, national identity is preserved. To neglect the kitchen means to deprive of a part of your cultural heritage. This also shows the collective attitude towards the national heritage.

Central European, Austrian, but also Eastern, especially Turkish cuisine, left the influence on national Montenegrin gastronomy. What is not changing in Montenegro is that they still live and eat slowly.



3.GASTRONOMIC OFFER AND GASTRONOMIC TOURISM IN MONTENEGRO
Tourists are increasingly interested to get acquainted with the characteristics of the nation, especially since consuming foods is one of the primary needs of man and also one of three favorite activities of tourists. What makes gastronomic tourism special is that it is available to tourists at any time of the day, 365 days a year. Consuming food can leave an extremely strong and long-lasting impression on tourists and it can become one of the most important motives for tourists.

Considering the tourism product, ie, Montenegro's tourist offer as a whole it is obviously that gastronomic products have an important role because they are integrated into the hotel and catering product, and they are positioned as a specific food market. The gastronomic product (complex and integral) is a significant factor in the strategy of improving the tourist offer of Montenegro.

The gastronomic heritage of Montenegro is a wide range of flavors from the Mediterranean, over the lake to the mountain cuisine. The centuries-old social and historical development of the country caused the creation of specific cultural and life styles, as well as a diverse traditional-gastronomic offer in the area of Montenegro. Montenegrin cuisine, although influenced by Italian, Turkish, Hungarian, and other cuisines, has its own national dishes. According to the manner in which meat, bread, fritters, collard greens or cheese are prepared in the continental part of Montenegro or along the Adriatic coast, there is an Italian influence. The influence of continental Europe is noticeable in the preparation of jams, cakes, donuts, and the great influence of Turkey is evident in the preparation of pies, byrek, cloves, and baklava. When preparing goulash, satarash, stew or similar dishes, which are often on the tables in homes throughout Montenegro, the influence of Hungarian cuisine is significant, and on the coast, however, the influence of Mediterranean cuisine is still the most prominent, which is evident in the preparation of the usual seafood dishes.

On the coast there are mainly Mediterranean dishes, seafood, which are cooked on domestic olive oil. The most famous fish are gràdele, red scorpion fish stew, muraena, cuttlefish and other fish. Side dish is usually chard, palenta, salad. In addition to the coastal cuisine, a specific lake cuisine connected to the area of Skadar Lake stands out in Montenegro. This kitchen is characterized by fish dishes, made of trouts, carps, eels and bleaks. A special specialty is dried tin bleaks, consumed with homemade wine. Along with the coastal and lake cuisine which are the part of the Montenegrin gastronomy there are also traditional dishes of the mountain and continental part – haste-puding and wheelbarrow, lamb and potatoes under the bell. In the village Njeguši, near Lovcen, the best prosciutto, cheese, castrates (dry sheep meat) and sausages are eaten - thanks to sea and mountain air and wood used for drying. Fruitful homemade drinks are served - grape brandy, pear brandy and quality wines – „Vranac“ ili „Krstač“.

Since Montenegrin cuisine is characterized by richness of taste, we can say that there are good predispositions for the development of gastronomic tourism.

If we want to analyze Montenegrin cuisine, we can distinguish a number of its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of Montenegrin gastronomy: -One of the important advantages of Montenegrin gastronomy is the fact that it is very rich and varied, it is distinguished by a large number of indigenous dishes at a small distance, which is related to the geographical location of the country;- In Montenegro, we can distinguish three types of cuisine: coastal, lake and mountain. The very names of the cuisine are a confirmation of the extent to which the cuisine is conditioned by relief;- We can label the culinary offer as „safe” because there are no significant alimentary toxoinfections (Food poisoning) [11]; -The gastronomy is accompanied by a series of traditional tourist events that are well visited, for example “The Festval of bleak and wine” in Virpazar, “The Festval of Olives” in Bar;- Linking national meals with national drinks, primarily wine, can be considered as an advantage in recent years.

The disadvantages of Montenegrin cuisine: - Often, old recipes are used incorrectly, with the use of concentrates, and industrial ready-made supplements;- In catering and / or restaurant facilities, national cuisine is usually represented in a small measure;- Incompetence or insufficiently fostering of cultural heritage of Montenegro. To the above, it can be added very little representation and study of gastronomy as a scientific discipline in educational institutions.

Possible benefits of gastronomic tourism for the receptive region, specifically for Montenegro are varied:

1. Increased demand for food products;

2. Employment and income;

3. Construction of a special brand;

4. Establishing a stronger link between tourists and a destination;

5. Regional local distribution of consumption.

4.CONCLUSION
Gastronomic tourism gets its chance because it can offer tourists a holistic experience. The key factor that has created a growth opportunity for gastronomic tourism comes from a trend in which people spend less and less time cooking at home but they have not lost interest in gastronomy. Based on all the analyzed data we can say that it is confirmed the initial assumption stating that gastronomy is very important in defining the image of the destination.

Summarizing the current situation, and taking into account the perspectives of the development of gastronomic tourism in Montenegro, the possible advantages are: - It would be necessary to create thematic gastronomic and culinary events, through which tourists would be able to meet and better understand a certain nation, their culture and tradition; - It would be necessary to develop a range of typical gastronomic products in the country, especially from environmentally-friendly products. In recent times in Montenegro, organic food is produced and also offered, grown under special ecological conditions. Experts from the Biotechnical Institute in Podgorica point out that the basic goal of organic food production is the production of foods of high nutritional value. Montenegro has excellent preconditions for the development of organic production, more precisely the Montenegrin area is still well preserved from air, water and soil pollution;- In gastronomic regions (coastal, lake and mountainous), it is necessary to work on the preservation of local specialties, protection of recipes and local products;- Efforts should be made for Montenegrin cuisine to be represented in European and world handbooks, in order to improve propaganda.

In addition to the fact that food has a growing role in tourism, we can say that a relatively small number of authors have explored the link between food, tourists and tourist destination. The connection between food, tourists and destination is very complex and complicated; There is a lack of a comprehensive understanding of their correlation. The relationship between tourism and food is multilayered, because other forms of tourism intertwine through gastronomy.

REFERENCES
[1].Tešanović, D.: Basics of gastronomy from managers, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Mathematics, Department of Geography, Tourism and Hotel Management, University of Novi Sad, 2012.

[2]. Onfre, M. :The Gourmet Mind: Philosophy of Taste, Čačak-Belgrade: Gradac, 2002.

[3]. Portić, M. J.: Gastronomy, University Singidunum, Belgrade, 2011.

[4]. Ivanović, D.: The Gastronomy of France, Beograd: Mimi, 2010.

[5] URL: https://aktivniturizam.hr/dodatne-ponude/gastronomija 25.06.2017.

[6]. Medaković,V. M. G.: Life and customs of the Montenegrins, Novi Sad, 1860.

[7]. Nenadović, Lj.: Selected works, Novi Sad, 1959.

[8]. Vuksan, D.: Petar I Petrović Njegoš and his time, Cetinje, 1951.

[9]. Rovinski, A. P.: Montenegro in the past and present, St. Petersburg, Vol II, 1897.

[10]. Šobajić, P.:Bjelopavlići and Pješivci, Podgorica, 1996.



[11]. Vulić, G.: Models of development and promotion of gastronomy for the needs of tourism in Slovenia, Scientific-professional journal "Turizam", Novi Sad, 2006.

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