Milford Sound, New Zealand

Mighty Milford

by

Eyes Right

Milford Sound, New Zealand – As the Milford Mariner pulled away from the pier, I found myself alone with 300 of my newest close friends. Captain Grant, an amiable fellow of about 40, was at the wheel of this twin-engine tourist craft taking us on a two hour cruise through Milford Sound toward the Tasman Sea.
This is a cruise well worth taking. The views of towering, snow-capped mountains rising nearly vertically from the water are a unique experience. Many of these giants have spectacular waterfalls cascading down their sides into the sea below. You will almost always see some New Zealand seal families basking on rocks near the shore. Birds circle overhead. Every view is essentially a post card scene. Clouds drift in and out of view, usually obstructing sight of the mountain tops, but receding just often enough to allow the occasional stunning glimpse of a 6000 ft high rocky top far above the clouds below.
This is a forbidding part of the world, weather-wise. As winds of the infamous "roaring 40's" race eastward across the Tasman Sea from Australia, they pick up moisture. Upon reaching the mouth of this fiord (Milford Sound is a misnomer - it is actually a fiord formed during the last ice age, then filled with sea water as the glacier completed its journey to the sea - it is definitely not a sound), the winds are channeled through a fairly narrow rocky passage in which the Bernoulli effect speeds up air flow creating strong winds and choppy seas. There is rain here nearly 280 days a year. I am told that the boat cruise is "acceptable" on rainy, windy days, but I was fortunate to catch my tour during excellent weather conditions.
Captain Grant is assisted by a crew of 9. A box lunch is included with the admission price and free coffee and tea is also provided. The boat was built locally 13 years ago about 75 miles south of here in Invercargill on the Foveaux Strait between South Island and Stewart Island. It was designed specifically for duty in Milford Sound with a shallow draft of just 5 ft in order to dock in the shallow water next to the wharf. Ironically, the water depth in the rest of the fiord is quite deep - often over 300 ft. Apparently, those steep rock walls on the sides of the fiord continue straight down. The ship has no thrusters; the Captain maneuvers the boat strictly with the twisting action of powerful twin Volvo engines on the twin screws and the rudder. Even in a brisk wind, he seemed to have no problems taking Milford Mariner into tight spaces next to where some of the more dramatic waterfalls crash into the sea.
Since this is a tourist attraction, the captain is also a bit of a showman. As we cruised the length of the fiord and even about a half mile out into the Tasman Sea, he provided narration about the history and geology of the region. Shortly after we docked, he loaded another group of tourists aboard for an overnight cruise, featuring the use of kayaks, swimming in the fiord, and dinner. There are accommodations for up to 64 guests who stay in well-appointed staterooms below decks. It is the "full package."
Getting to Milford Sound is itself an adventure. Most visitors make the 4-5 hr drive from Queenstown via two-lane roads with several one-lane bridges. There is a 1.6 kilometer one-lane tunnel through the final mountain range just east of Milford. This tunnel has its own interesting history. It was begun in 1932, but was dug strictly by hand. When WW II intervened, work essentially stopped and the tunnel was not completed until the mid-1950's. Inside travelers have a rather scary drive with a full 10% downgrade when heading west. Due to its shallow height, there is little clearance for tour busses or tractor trailers. Due to the ever-present danger of rock avalanches, all traffic through the tunnel is stopped at night. If you have not started through the tunnel by 7:30 PM, you must remain on that side for the night. However, the views during this drive are also unique - there is even a pull-off where you can walk on the shores of a mirror lake where light from the surrounding peaks provides exact reflections of the mountains above.
Bottom line: brave the crowds, get out your wallet, and visit this place. Whether sound or fiord, it is not to be missed.
I thought you might like to know.
E-R