About Uzbekistan



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Khiva, Uzbekistan



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About Uzbekistan
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Khiva
Khiva
Khiva Guide
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19tours
12hotels
9monuments
Khiva monuments map
"At first sight, Khiva had a shabby, provincial and slightly disappointing feel to it. It was only
as we turned the corner at the bottom of the road that the Ichan Kala loomed in front of us.


The bulging mud-brick walls wound around a crowded centre of madrassahs, mosques,
minarets and mausoleums like a large bronze snake basking in the autumn sun. Nearing the
walls, we could see their crenellations and the impressive watchtower, giving the appearance
of an elaborate sandcastle. Four enormous, turreted gates led into the inner city from the four
points of the compass. We approached the Grandfather Gate and Jeanette introduced us to a
plump woman who sold entry tickets. We would pay admission this time but, seeing as we
were living in Khiva, wouldn't pay again. This was, after all, one of the main thoroughfares for
getting to the bazaar."
"'It's a dry heat, a dry heat.' I kept repeating this mantra, but as the thermometer crept above
40°C and continued, I accepted that dry or humid, the weather was unbearably hot. We had no
air-conditioning in the office so I would douse my T-shirt in water and put it on wet, the table-
fan by the computer on full blast. The walled city was even worse - the huge mud-brick walls
retaining the heat - and my bedroom was impossible to sleep in. I dragged my mattress up to
the roof, joining the boys under the stars and enjoying the occasional night breeze. Getting up
early felt unnatural but this was the only time when I had any energy. The summer days were
long and the sun set around eight at night. I would return from the office, the slanted rays
turning the Ichan Kala walls bronze. Girls spattered water from buckets around their house to
settle the dust and take the edge off the heat. Grannies sat in the shade of a tree gossiping, and
as the evening wore on, families dragged their televisions outside ready for the evening meal." 

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