Oahu Beaches

Police Beach (O-22) is a curving, northwest-facing 1000 m long beach that extends east from Pua’ena Point to a protruding section of beachrock. It consists of a high tide sandy beach fronted by continuous exposed beachrock. The beachrock dominates the inter to low tides zone making the beach unsuitable for swimming at the shoreline. In addition the reef permits waves averaging over 1 m to reach the shore resulting in a heavy shore break over the beachrock, as well as generating currents running parallel to the shore and seaward as rips.
Papa’iola Beach consists of a western and eastern section centred on the protruding sandy foreland backed by Papa’iola Road, with the public access located at the centre of the foreland. The western beach (O-23) curves to the west for 800 m between the two sandy forelands, both of which are tied to and fronted by beachrock on the lower swash zone. The beachrock extends along most of the beach making it generally unsuitable for shoreline swimming. The fringing reef shoals off the beach resulting in lower waves at the shoreline. Waves break over the reefs off the foreland and include The Point surf break. To the east of the foreland the beach (O-24) curves for 800 m to the next small sandy foreland. This beach has a steep swash zone, with beachrock outcropping on the western foreland, then a beach free of beachrock apart from a 100 m long section located in the centre of the beach. Wave break heavily over the reef 200 m offshore. The reef deepens towards the east forming the Himalayas left hand break along the eastern edge. Beachfront house back the entire beach.
Laniakea Beach (O-25) is a popular very accessible beach with an excellent right hand break over the reef located 200-300 m offshore. The 300 m long beach extends from the subtle sandy foreland in the west to a cluster of basalt boulders that separate it from Turtle beach in the east. It is a continuous steep sandy beach, with patches of beachrock along the base of the beach and then basalt boulders in the east. A channel runs off the beach and a rip current flows out the channel between the Laniakea and Himalayas surf breaks. A second rip runs out against the eastern point.
Turtle Beach (O-26) is a 100 m long steep sandy beach located named after the turtles that frequent the beach. It is located between the boulders of Laniakea beach and the basalt boulder point that protrudes 100 m seaward and extends for 300 m east to Chuns Reef beach. The eastern rip generated by the Laniakea break runs out off the beach and along the side of the rocky point. The Hultin’s (Off The Rocks) surf break is located off the western end of the rocks, while Jacko’s break is located further round the point.

OAHU 27-30 CHUNS REEF-ALLIGATOR ROCK

No. Beach Rating Type Length

27 Chuns Reef 6 8 R+fringing reef 300 m

28 Pidley's 5 8 R+fringing reef 700 m

29 Leftovers 5 8 R+fringing reef 200 m

30 Alligator Rock 7 8 R+fringing reef 300 m
To the east of Laniakea is a 300 m long section of basalt rocks and boulders, located to the lee of the Jacko’s break, then a 1.7 km long section of irregular beaches and rocks that includes four beaches (O 27-30) including the popular break at Chuns Reef. The Kamehameha Highway parallels the shore, with beachfront houses located between the highway and shore, with the only good public access at Chuns Reef, at the very western end of this section of shoreline.
Chuns Reef is a shore attached shallow fringing reef over which breaks the popular Chuns Reef right break. The Chuns Reef beach (O-27) commences at the eastern side of the Laniakea basalt shoreline and trends to the north for 300 m to the centre of the prominent sandy foreland formed in lee of the reef. The water from the left hand waves breaking over Jacko’s reef combines with the water flowing off Chuns Reef to maintain a strong rip that flows out though a deep channel off the western end of the beach, just in front of the highway access. A small fenced beach park is located on the western side of the foreland and is used to locate mobile lifeguard patrols.
Pidley’s is a left break that forms over the eastern side of Chuns reef. The backing 700 m long beach (O-28) curves to the northeast from sandy foreland to a cluster of basalt boulders, with boulders also located in the centre of the beach. Waves averaging over 1 m reach the steep beach and combine with the water flowing off Chuns Reef in the west and a raised reef in the east to maintain rips to either end. The rips and shoreline boulders result in a hazardous swimming conditions.
Leftovers and Rightovers are two breaks located either side of a 100 m long shore parallel section of 1-2 m high raised reef, with a sandy foreland to its lee, which attaches to the reef during lower summer waves. A 200 m long beach (O-29) extends from the eastern boulders of Pidley’s beach, to the lee of the reef to the beginning of the next section of basalt rock and boulder shoreline. Because of the raised reef, waves are generally low at the shoreline, however during moderate to high waves flows over and around the reef to feed rips to either end of the beach. In addition much of the eastern end of the each is dominated by basalt boulders with hazardous swimming conditions.
Alligator Rock is a 100 m long partly exposed linear reef that is located 150 m offshore off the eastern end of beach O-30. The 300 m long beach extends from the eastern basalt rocks to the beginning of the basalt shoreline that extend east past Uppers to Waimea Bay. The entire shoreline is fronted by basalt boulders both at the shoreline and in the inner surf, with the shallow reefs extending 150 m offshore and deeper reefs beyond. The Alligator Rock break forms on the western side of the reef, while the Marijuana and Uppers breaks are located amongst the reef to the east of the beach.

OAHU 31 WAIMEA BAY

No. Beach Rating Type Length

31 Waimea Bay 7 10 R-LTT+beachrock 600 m

Waimea Bay is the most famous single beach in Hawaii and site of the world renown Waimea Bay surf break, as well as the infamous shore break, and the lesser known Pinballs break during moderate waves. The bay occupies the drowned mouth of the Waimea River, with prominent basalt rocks and headland forming the two boundaries. The highway runs down the western headland to cross the river and provide access to the beach park, and then runs along the base of the eastern headland, which also houses the church and tower. The beach (O-31) is part of a sandy barrier that has formed across the mouth of the river, the river and floodplain extending over 1 km inland into the narrow V-shaped valley. The beach is composed of medium to coarse carbonate sand, which helps maintain a steep high beach face. While reefs extends off either headland the bay has deep water which permits high waves to reach the shore which combine with the sand to maintain a high, steep, wide beach in summer. During the higher winter waves the upper beach is eroded and a bar forms off the base of the beach. Together with submerged beachrock this bar forms the bar-ledge upon which the heavy shorebreak plunges.
Under most wave conditions wave height is highest at the shore against the western ‘jump rock’, decreasing towards the river mouth. During low waves (< 1 m) the wave surge right at the shoreline. However as waves height increases they not only break more heavily, but also further from the shore. This generates a rip to runs east along the beach in the direction of the decreasing wave height. While this rip heads towards the lower waves, a second larger rip forms during high wave when the main break is working. This water flows seaward as a strong rip that commences in the eastern corner off the river mouth. It then flows out the centre of the bay under west to northwest swell, shifting more westward across the rocks during more northerly wave conditions. The same rip is used by surfers to paddle out through the bay. Under extreme conditions the bay closes out across this rip.
Waimea Bay beach is an attractive, easily accessible beach backed by a large grassy beach park and parking area. It is also however a potentially very hazardous beach even under relatively low waves conditions owing to the shorebreak which can knock and roll over the unwary, and which rapidly becomes deadly under moderate to high waves. A strong inshore easterly rip begins to operate under moderate waves, feeding into the large strong central bay rip. The Waimea surf break is one of the more challenging and hazardous on the North Shore and should only be surfed by experienced big wave surfers.

OAHU 32-33 THREE TABLES-SHARK COVE

No. Beach Rating Type Length

32 Three Tables 5 8 R+reef 100 m

33 Shark Cove 6 10 R+rock flats 50 m
Pupukea Beach Park is a narrow park that extends east of Waimea Bay and includes the Three Tables and Shark Cove beaches. The parking area and facilities for the park are located in the centre right on the Kamehameha Highway. Three Tables beach is located 100 m west of car park, while Shark Cove lies 200 m to the east. Most of the park shoreline consists of jagged raised coral reefs, with basalt also outcropping in places. The two beaches are located in amongst the rocks and both are popular, but potentially very hazardous locations.
Three Tables beach (O-32) is named after the three small exposed reefs that lie 50 m off the beach and shelter it from the wave that break over the reefs. The 100 m long beach is located to lee of the reefs, with a 50 m long basalt point forming the western boundary, and the beginning of a 200 m long section of raised reef, the eastern boundary. In between is the steep sandy beach, which is backed by a small kerb side car park and the highway. Under low wave conditions this is a relatively calm and popular swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing beach. However once waves break over the reef, the water returns seaward via strong, narrow rips located at either end of the ‘tables’. In addition to the reef, there are rocks and reefs to either side of the beach, as well as rocks dominating the seafloor between the shore and reef. For these reasons a lifeguard is permanently located at the beach.
Shark Cove (O-33) is a deep 50 m wide cove cut in 2 m high raised reef. The reef also forms a 2 m high rampart extending 100 m west of the cove, with an intertidal rock platform linking the rampart to the shore where amongst the rocks and reef is a 50 m long high tide beach. Despite the dominate of rocks and jagged surfaces, this is a very popular location owing to the deep water offered in the cove. It is used under calm conditions by snorkellers and scuba divers, while the beach and rocks attract sunbakers, fishers and the general public, particularly as it is located in a very visible location right on the highway. Under calm summer conditions the only hazards are the deep water and the rocks. However once waves start breaking over the rampart and flowing into the cove it becomes extremely hazardous, owing to the water flowing over the rocks, the increase in water depth over the rocks, and the strong rip the returning water generates in the cove.

OAHU 34-36 KE IKI-EHUKAI BEACH

No. Beach Rating Type Length

Shore Outer

34 Ke Iki 7 8 R+rocks 500 m

35 Rock Pile 7 8 R+rocks/reef 400 m

36 Ehukai 7 8 R+reef 1400 m
The 2.5 km long section of relatively straight sandy beach between Ke Iki and Rocky Point hosts the most famous number of surf breaks per kilometre of beach in the world. From west to east along the shore are Log Cabins, Rock Pile, Off the Wall, Backdoor, Pipeline, Gums, Pupukea, Gas Chambers and the Rocky Point rights or approximately one break for every 250 m of beach. All the breaks form over inshore reefs and rocks and all typically break within 100 m of the shore, with outer breaks off Log Cabins and Pipeline during high waves. The combination of the northwest orientation of the beach into the dominant winter swell, the deep outer reefs which permit the high waves to break close to shore and the medium to coarse beach sand which maintain a steep swash zone, together with the inshore reef and exposed basalt, beachrock and reef along parts of the shore, also results in the most hazardous section of beach on Oahu. When these hazards are combined with good public access at Rock Pile and Ehukai Beach Park, the near continuous strip of beachfront houses and overall fame of the beach, it bring together many experienced and inexperienced surfers and swimmers, resulting in a very high level of public risk. To help mitigate this risk lifeguards are based at Rock Pile and Ehukai Beach Park, with a mobile patrol keeping and eye on the entire strip.
Ke Iki Beach (O-34) is a straight 500 m long wide, steep cusped sandy beach that commences against the raised reef of Shark Cove and extends northeast to a 100 m long section of swash zone beachrock, which becomes exposed during the winter months. The beach is fronted by the deepest reefs along this section permitting relatively high waves to reach the shore and break as an explosive shorebreak once waves exceed 1 m. The strong swash and backwash usually maintain several steep, widely scaped cusps averaging about 50 m apart, making then amongst the largest in the world. The heavy shorebreak, the steep cusped beach, and bordering rocks produce a very hazardous beach where considerable wave energy is expended over a few metres, the backwash converging into the cusp swales and flowing out into the shorebreak. In addition depending on wave direction a rip flows out against the jagged Shark Cove point during northerly waves, and east towards Rock Pile during westerly waves. The beach is backed by private houses and the Ke Iki cabins, the latter attracting inexperienced and unwary visitors to the shore.
Rock Pile beach (O-35) commences at the beachrock section and continues northeast for 400 m to the 50 m long pile of basalt boulders known at Rock Pile, just in front of Lifeguard Tower 27 and the North Shore lifeguard headquarters. Houses back the beach, with a small car park behind the tower, adjacent to mouth of the usually blocked Kalunawaika’ala Stream. The beach remains steep, while inshore reef shoals cause waves over 1 m to being breaking over the reefs up to 100 m offshore, which produce the Log Cabins and Rock Pile surf breaks. While these breaks lower waves at the shoreline, they generate strong longshore currents, which feed into a rip that exits seaward on the eastern side of Rock Pile.
Ehukai Beach (O-36) commences at Rock Pile and trends northeast for 1.4 km to the raised coral reefs of Rocky Point. The Ehukai Beach Park backs the centre of the beach and is the site of the Lifeguard Tower 26. The beach widens in summer, narrowing and shifting east in winter, all the while maintaining a steep sandy swash zone, sometime the berm backed by a runnel filled with water. Once waves exceed 1 m they begin breaking on inshore reefs producing the several recognised surf breaks along the beach. The inner break hold form up to about 3-4 m, with higher wave breaking up to 5 m at Outside Pipeline. Each breaks focuses wave breaking and influences the direction of surf zone currents and rip currents, which depending on wave direction can shift in location and direction. The most prominent rip currents are those generated by the Pipeline in the centre and Rocky Point in the east. These currents can also deposit sand bars, which can temporarily produce both excellent surf over the bars (e.g. Gums and Pupukea), as well as strong rips flowing out of the channels besides the bars. The combination of the very heavy surf breaks close to shore, strong rip currents and potentially strong swash and backwash produce increasingly hazardous conditions once waves exceed 1 m. When combined with the high level of beach usage by both experienced surfers, and inexperienced visitors, as well as children from the Sunset Beach Elementary School which backs the beach, the result is a very high level of public risk and perhaps the most hazardous beach on the island.

OAHU 37-39 SUNEST BEACH-VELZYLAND

No. Beach Rating Type Length

Shore Outer

37 Sunset Beach 5 8 R+fringing reef 1400 m

38 Backyards 4 8 R+beachrock/reef 300 m

39 Velzyland 5 8 R+fringing reef 1200 m
Rocky Point is a raised coral reef that is exposed on the beach and extends out into the surf to form the famous surf break. To the east of the point the sandy shoreline curves into two larger bays that occupy the next 3 km of the shore, the first bay occupied by Sunset Beach, the second by Velzyland. The curving shoreline is the result of the Rocky Point reefs, and particularly fringing reefs that extend 300 m off Sunset beach to form the main Sunset surf break, and up to 400 m off Velzyland to produce the Backyards and Velzyland breaks. Beachfront homes back Rocky Point, Sunset Point and much of Velzyland, with the best public access from the highway at centre of Sunset Beach, and via beach access paths on Sunset Point.
Sunset Beach (O-37) is a curving 1.4 km long beach that commences at Rocky Point, curves in to meet the highway in the centre and then curves out towards Sunset Point. The raised coral, then fringing reef extends 200-300 m off and east of Rocky Point and produce the Rocky Point lefts, Monster Mush and Kammies surf breaks. A deep sand filled channel, part of the drowned Paumalu Stream winds out off the centre of the beach, with inner beachrock, then fringing reefs extending 300-400 m off the eastern side of the beach to form the famous Sunset Beach break. The extensive reefs and breaks tend to lower waves at the shore to usually less than 1 m. However the water flowing off the reefs moves sideward along both sides of the beach to converge in the centre and flows seaward out the channel as a permanent rip, which increases in velocity with increasing wave height. The main hazards at the shoreline are the deeper water in the channel, the rip feeder currents and the rip. The beachrock reef on the eastern side of the each forms a narrow lagoon between the reef and shore, which during calm conditions is popular with mother and children and known as Mothers. However when waves are breaking they feed into the rip feeder and eventually rip current. The lifeguard tower is located next to the highway in the centre of the beach overlooking the rip and just east of the usually blocked stream mouth.
Backyards beach (O-38) occupies the western side and tip of Sunset Point and consists of a more sheltered beach fronted by continuous beachrock outcrops and reef, then shallow fringing reef extending 300-400 m offshore, in amongst which is the righthand Backyards surf break. The name refers to the yards of the beachfront houses that occupy Sunset Point. While waves are relatively low at the shore, seaward of the beach is a zone of breaking waves over shallow reefs and surf zone currents.
Velzyland (Kaunala) beach (O-38) extends from the eastern side of Sunset Point, curving round for 1.2 km to the next prominent sandy foreland. Both forelands are formed in lee of shallow fringing reefs that extend 300-400 m offshore, with a wide, deep channel off the centre of the beach. The Backyards surf forms over the western reefs, and the Velzyland breaks over the eastern reefs. These from the shore out include Freddyland, Velzyland, Revelations, and the outer big wave Phantoms. Waves break heavily across the reefs resulting in lower waves at the shore and a relatively steep reflective sandy beach. However water flows across both reefs, towards the shore, then turns and flows alongshore converging in the centre to form a permanent rip, with velocity and distance it flows seaward increasing with wave height. The beach is backed entirely by private houses and difficult to access. Kaunala and a second smaller stream are located either side of the embayment.
OAHU 40-42 WAIALE’E-KAWELA
No. Beach Rating Type Length

Shore Outer

40 Waiale’e 4 8 R+beachrock/fringing reef 1200 m

41 Waiale’e Beach Park 4 8 R+beachrock/fringing reef 200m

42 Pahipahi’alua 6 8 R+beachrock/fringing reef 600 m

43 West Kawela 5 8 R+beachrock/fringing reef 300 m

Waiale’e Beach extends for 2 km east of the foreland located to the lee of the Velzyland reef, to the beach park, then along a section of beachrock dominated shoreline to the western side of Kawela Bay. It consists of four beach sections each separated by prominent beachrock outcrops, with variable beachrock and fringing coral reef extending up to 500 m seaward. Because of the width of the reef waves are generally low at the shoreline. The only public access is in the west via a gravel road which runs past the University of Hawaii Agricultural Station, and in the centre at Waiale’e Beach Park, a small undeveloped park, with beachfront house and private property backing the eastern half of the beaches.
Waiale’e Beach (O-40) commences at the sandy beachrock-tipped foreland and curves gently to the northeast for 1.2 km to a small beachrock and sand foreland formed in lee of Kukaimanini Island, a small islet of raised reef. The beach is backed on the foreland by a few old houses, which are accessible from the highway and a large informal parking area, then the University station which occupies much of the Kalou Marsh followed by a grove of tall casuarina trees, which extend to the point. Waves break over fringing reefs extending 500 m off either end of the beach, with a continuous shallow 100 m wide reef in between. As a result waves are low at the sandy shoreline, which has outcrops of beachrock.
Waiale’e Beach Park (O-41) is a small undeveloped park located right on the highway, which provides roadside parking but no facilities. The park beach extends from the small foreland in lee of Kukaimanini Island east for 300 m, to the beginning of a continuous section of beachrock. Waves break on reef, which extend up to 500 m offshore, and then against on inner raised reef, which extends east of the island 50-100 m offshore. As a result waves are usually low at the shore, which consists of a near continuous outcrop of beachrock at the base of the beach and a sandy high tide beach, with scattered casuarina trees in the backing car park. Because of the good access the beach is popular with sunbathers, fishers and snorkelers.
Pahipahi’alua beach (O-42) extends east of the beach park for 600 m as a continuous strip of beachrock, backed by in places and to the east by a small high tide beach. Fringing reefs, separated by a deep central channel, extend 500-600 m offshore resulting in low waves at the shore. During high waves a rip current does flow out through the outer channel, though waves and currents are usually quiet along the shore. Because of the beachrock the inner rocks and reef the beach is unsuitable for swimming. Most of the beach is backed by beachfront houses with public access only from the adjacent beach park. It is primarily used by rock fishers whose rod holders are embedded in the beachrock.
West Kawela beach (O-43) extends east for 300 m past the end of the beachrock to the western point of Kawela Bay. The beach begins in lee of a 100 m long section of beachrock that protrudes seaward, with shallow reefs narrowing from 500 m in the west to 200 m off the eastern tip of the beach, where a small reef islet is located 50 m off the beach. Waves break heavily across the reef resulting in usually low waves at the shore. The sandy beach has outcrops of beachrock, then a shallow inshore generally making it unsuitable for swimming. There is however surf breaks on the point. It is backed by continuous beachfront houses with no direct public access.
OAHU 44-47 KAWELA & TURTLE BAYS
No. Beach Rating Type Length

Shore Outer

44 Kawela Bay 3 6 R 800 m

45 Turtle Bay west 5 7 R+fringing reef 600 m

46 Turtle Bay 5 7 R+fringing reef 400 m

47 Turtle Bay east 5 7 R+beachrock/reef 400 m

Kawela and Turtle bays are two adjoining bays both bordered by protruding low points of raised reefs. Kawela bay is entirely backed by beachfront houses with no public access, while Turtle Bay has an undeveloped western point, then the Turtle Bay golf course, with part of the Turtle Bay resort backing the eastern half of the bay.