080
Apr. 2015
M
yanmar has the longest
border with
China of any country along the Mekong
River Basin. Since the Ming Dynasty
(1368-1644 CE), vast amounts of jade have entered
China’s Yunnan Province via Myanmar’s Mandalay
region. This trade route has not only fed Chinese
consumers’ desire for one of their favorite gem-
stones, but, more than a millennium ago, led to the
introduction of Chinese lacquer ware into Myan-
mar, where it has since gained pride of place as a
traditional skill.
On my book shelve stands a lacquerware ele-
phant, brought back from Bagan a year ago; its
wooden formwork is overall black, with a simple,
clean thin bamboo strip and copper wire pattern re-
stricted to its four legs and back. I also have a set of
cups, formed of
thin bamboo strips, which although
very pliable, do not leak or scald your hands. Their
black base color is covered with yellow decorative
patterns, painted so finely they might have been
done with ants’ feet. From a simply decorative point
of view, the two works are examples of Myanmar
lacquer ware that appear different from each other
as chalk and cheese, but from a production point of
view, they are equally complex. As a first step, the
formwork must be created using bamboo, leather,
paper or wood, before undergoing 4-5 layers of
painting and polishing. Onto this, paintings or col-
lages are then applied, with each item taking sever-
al days or even months to complete.
Bagan itself is a sea
of workshops which produce
lacquer ware, and people spend vast amounts of
time producing and studying lacquer ware. On my
visits to some of the largest shops and backroom
workshops, I soon realized that almost all of the lac-
quer ware is for everyday use, with few items being
purely decorative art pieces. Might this perhaps be
the reason that lacquer ware has not become a firm
favorite among the Myanmarese: not only is a piece
for everyday use, but it is also an art piece and gift,
all at a very reasonable price.
In Mandalay, friends strongly recommended that
I see a puppet show. The venue was a small, 50-
seat theatre, with a live orchestra struggling to play
traditional instruments. The performers on stage
were speaking and singing in lilting tones, their
hands tweaking the puppet strings to breathe life
into them, making them
laugh and cry, fight and
dance in front of the backdrop. Once the 40-min-
ute performance was over, the audience rose from
their seats to give a long ovation – the puppets, so
vividly brought to life to perform for us, were truly
astounding.
After seeing the performance, everybody inevita-
bly wants to take a puppet home. These are mostly
characters from Myanmar tradition, history and
fairy tales, and include everything from magical
generals to mighty kings, and chubby girls to aus-
tere monks. The entire menagerie of characters on
show
in the theatre, with painted facial features and
beaded and sequined clothes, hang from the walls.
When I examine them again after the show, they
seem to have come to life, full of their own person-
alities. The simplest have five strings to move the
four limbs and the head; more complex puppets
have more than ten strings, which move not only
the limbs and head, but also the eyes, lower jaw, hat
and even fingers!
The finest Myanmar artistry: lacquered wooden carvings
Burmese Lacquer
Ware and Puppets
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084
Apr. 2015
F
acing the Yunnan border port of Mohan
is the Northern Laotian town of Luang
Prabang, a temple-lined tourist destina-
tion, which, in addition to the charms of its many
shrines, and warm and friendly locals, also offers
another major attraction – a seemingly endless
range of traditional handicrafts!
Wood-carved Buddha hands, beaded tapestries,
hand-stitched fabrics, silken scarves, paper lan-
terns … But my favorite by far is Laotian paper art
and brocade. These two crafts originally came from
China, but their creativity comes from their integra-
tion
into the local culture, making them a source of
pride all on their own.
The raw material for hand-made paper is the
bark of the Kadam tree (also known as the paper
mulberry) commonly found in tropical regions.
The bark is soaked, boiled, pulped, formed into
paper and then dried. This process is no different
from the handmade paper production method still
in use in China today. However, the Laotians have
developed the decorative features of this paper to a
fine art. They pick a variety of fresh flowers which
bloom year-round in tropical regions, pluck off
their colorful petals, and sprinkle these freely into
the paper pulp; mix a few leaves or small flowers;
once dried, this becomes Sa paper. Sa paper pulp
is thick and tough, yet bright and translucent. The
Laotians use it for packaging, to make lampshades,
curtains, notebooks, and
all kinds of other paper
handicrafts. When held up to the sun, the contours
and stunning colors of the petals and leaves become
apparent, filling you with a sense of beauty.
My first encounter with Laotian brocade was in
a boutique at the hotel where I was staying in the
capital, Vientiane. A brocade with a deep red hue,
approximately 50 centimeters in width and 3 me-
ters in length hung by the entrance. It portrayed
the many legends of a Laotian tribe. But this bro-
cade was not painted, or embroidered, but woven!
Weaving is entirely reliant on the regular action of
the loom; regular geometric patterns and blocks of
colors are relatively easy to achieve, but irregular
patterns require painstaking care and time to con-
ceive and bring to fruition. And lest we forget, this
piece was a major biographical record incorporat-
ing
many hundreds of people, animals, objects and
scenes! Think of the countless shuttle spools, each
with their different colored threads, which must be
threaded through to the base thread in exactly the
right place. The thought of the slow progress which
went into creating this piece was enough to make
me break out in a cold sweat. Sadly, the asking price
was one which I could not afford.
I later visited a textile village, where the pric-
es were much more reasonable, and I joyously
snapped up four cotton scarves, six large shawls
and two pictures, all
of them brocaded in stunning
colors.
Lao wooden carving
Brocade
Laos Sa Paper
and Brocade
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