090
Apr. 2015
It is possible to enter Cambodia directly from
Laos. I took an overnight coach and ferry before
transferring to a minibus which took me into Cam-
bodia, and then hired a car to cover the length and
breadth of the country. On this journey there were
three groups of women who left indelible marks
on my mind the girls with their heavy make-up
and dancing figures, the elderly nuns, dressed all
in white
as they walked through temples, and the
ethereal crowned, shapely bodied devatas which
inhabit the sculptures at Angkor Wat.
Young dancers decorate themselves with colors
of every hue over their bodies; nuns display their re-
nunciation of the everyday world with their simple
white robes; and the devatas, transparent, shape-
ly yet without color, attach themselves to stone,
wood, a flower or a leaf, and take on their color.
Of
Cambodia’s handicrafts, the most common are
stone sculptures and wood carvings of Aditi. Since
ancient times, local craftsmen have specialized in
stone sculptures, and bas relief in particular; the
structures of the Angkor
Wat complex are a superb
example of their work.
The material for these sculptures is a grey sand-
stone particular to the region, characterized by its
soft texture, low density, light weight, and by the
ease with which it can be carved and transported.
Its main disadvantage is its coarse grain, which
makes it unsuitable for working with fine tools,
which are easily worn down. This is the reason why
none of the devatas that we encounter at Angkor
Wat are fine-limbed. Over the years, their features
have become worn away, making them gorgeously
soft and attractive. I looked in detail at the traces of
their facial features, crowns, robes and neck orna-
ments, and
regretted the fact that time, as it wore
away their detail, has also worn away the skills of
their master craftsmen leaving only an empty space
in your imagination.
This empty space was only filled when I reached
the Banteay Srei. The sandstone of this temple is
red in color, and is only used within this small area.
It has a harder texture than its grey counterpart and
this allowed me to glimpse the apotheosis of Cam-
bodian craftsmanship in the building’s bas relief,
high-relief and hollow carved pieces.
Their softly sensual beauty embodying the aes-
thetic orientation of the master craftsmen, albeit
scarred by time. They come as close as possible to
resembling Aditi which their creators would have
seen at Angkor Wat. Of course, they are also the fo-
cus
of tourists , and stalls all around sell loads of the
sandstone bas-relief pieces which I had bought at
the handicraft shop: Buddha, dancing apsaras, the
protector deities of Buddhist law of the Ramayana,
miniatures of the five pagodas of Angkor Wat..The
craftsmen stack them outdoors, exposing them to
the sun and rain, and only once they have accumu-
lated sufficient natural damage are they taken to
market, and placed on sale.
Dancing devatas in a bas-relief at Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Cambodia’s
Sandstone
Sculptures
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094
Apr. 2015
Thai Pra Kruang
T
hailand
faces the sea to the Southeast, and
is bordered by Myanmar, Cambodia and
Laos. A member of a group once known as
the Asian Dragons, the country is world-famous
for its tourism. Thanks to effective economic as-
sistance and the
support of its royal family, the
development of the nation’s handicrafts is second
to none along the Mekong River Basin. Thailand is
well known for its colorful silk products, exquisite
lacquer ware, hand-painted paper umbrellas, wood
crafts, embossed silver, bamboo, rattan and even its
high-quality porcelain, wood carvings, embroider-
ing or jewelry.
Maybe it is because they
are so compelling, so
unique, that I find that I cannot do them justice in
words. I mulled it over, and decided to write about
an exquisite piece of craftsmanship which is rarely
found in night markets and handicraft markets, but
which nevertheless best conveys the Thai spiritual
realm – the Pra Kruang.
Pra Kruang are small Buddha statues which are
used to
ward off misfortune, and are considered
talismans, worthy of prayer and worship. They are
an object of religious devotion very similar indeed
to the Tsa Tsa which Bazan gave me in Tibet. The
main religion in the nations of the Mekong River
Basin is Buddhism. Except for Vietnam, Hinayana
Buddhism is the norm, while the Thevarada branch
prevails on the Tibetan plateau.
Their religious meaning aside, I would like to
mention their craftsmanship.
Although Pra Kruang
are produced in molds, the crafting of these molds
Photo Story
Tiny ancient Pra Kruang made of clay or ceramic
Thai brocade
Buddhas in a Thai temple
T
hailand faces the sea to the Southeast, and
is bordered by Myanmar, Cambodia and
Laos. A member of a group once known as
the Asian Dragons, the country is world-famous
for its tourism. Thanks to effective economic as-
sistance and the support of its royal family, the
development of the nation’s handicrafts is second
to none along the Mekong River Basin. Thailand is
well known for its colorful silk products, exquisite
lacquer ware, hand-painted paper umbrellas, wood
crafts, embossed silver, bamboo, rattan and even its
high-quality porcelain, wood carvings, embroider-
ing or jewelry.
Maybe it is because they are so compelling, so
unique, that I find that I cannot do them justice in
words. I mulled it over, and decided to write about
an exquisite piece of craftsmanship which is rarely
found in night markets and handicraft markets, but
which nevertheless best conveys the Thai spiritual
realm – the Pra Kruang.
Pra Kruang are small Buddha statues which are
used to ward off misfortune, and are considered
talismans, worthy of prayer and worship. They are
an object of religious devotion very similar indeed
to the Tsa Tsa which Bazan gave me in Tibet. The
main religion in the nations of the Mekong River
Basin is Buddhism. Except for Vietnam, Hinayana
Buddhism is the norm, while the Thevarada branch
prevails on the Tibetan plateau.
Their religious meaning aside, I would like to
mention their craftsmanship. Although Pra Kruang
are produced in molds, the crafting of these molds
P001-118-BAGC3-R5D1b2a1B3.indd 94
15-3-7 下午12:36