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privileged to witness. Now it was time to go home. So
we got into the bus and turned our gaze for a last look
at the city with mud houses. The setting sun colored the
interstices and gaps that decorated the upper parts of the
walls of the mud houses, which looked, from far away,
like miniature houses. They somehow reminded me of
the biscuit cans, may be because of the decorations that
characterize both.
Farewell Dar’iyyah. We hope to come back some day.
These old settlements will remain quite vivid in my memory
and in the tens of the photos we took, which recorded the
impressions of close friends on the background of the ruins
of Dar’iyyah and in the painting which I once painted for
this city on the basis of the fresh impressions that were
converted on the drawing paper into bright colors and
impassioned emotions.
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Customs and Traditions
The way of life of bedouins or rather in the Arabian
Peninsula has undoubtedly changed under the impact of
the pressure resulting from the wealth that literally poured
on the country and all the resulting consequences. This
new way of life does not conform to European norms.
This is because of the effect of religion and because the
accumulated traditions and customs did not have enough
time to vanish from popular memory within such a short
period of time. Thus the Saudis who found themselves
under quite different socio-economic conditions are living
pursuant to their historical experience and in accordance
with the laws of Islam.
Although all city dwellers live in stone houses, yet
many of them have not forgotten the laws of the tent.
Thus, they must have two segregated guest rooms, one for
men and the other for women. Guests who are not very
close to the owners of the house are usually received by
both husband and wife, it being understood that the wife
would be wearing a veil on her face. She would escort
the women guests to the place allocated specially for
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women, while the men are taken by the husband to the
official guest room, where he receives colleagues, friends
and relatives to discuss problems that have emerged in
their vast country. In both guest halls, servants of the same
sex as that of the guests serve such guests. Contemporary
Saudis are quite hospitable, just like their ancestors. All
guests, of whatever category, receive a warm welcome
and are spared anything that may cause them any worry
or discomfort. Hence, on reception days, the children
are sent to visit their relatives or are moved to a remote
room where they are looked after by an adult and are not
permitted to make any disturbance or noise, not even to
speak aloud. During the first years of my stay in Riyadh,
I used to be surprised at the absence of what is usual for
us in connection with children’s play and amusement and
with the barking of dogs, of which there are none in the
city, in the first place. In general, Saudi children grow to
maturity early on and are well brought up, are quiet and
show great respect and even obedience in the presence of
their elders.
Guests are served with bedouin coffee and tea. Coffee
is served in small cups of which a small part only is filled.
On the other hand, the cup of tea is filled to the brim;
otherwise this is construed by the guest as unwillingness
of the host to receive him at his house. In general, Saudis
are keen on avoiding any disputes that could lead to a
scandal, noise or screams, or, God forbid, to a quarrel or
fighting. They are usually quiet, good-natured, forbearing
and solemn. But this does not mean that they are not
emotional or sensitive. Thus their self-confidence does
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not allow them to behave in a manner that is contrary to
decorum, although Saudis, specially women, are skilful in
the use of metaphors, metonymy and symbolic language,
in the use of which their ancestors excelled. Thus if a
woman who is known to indulge in gossip and backbiting
happens to be among the guests, the hostess would put
next to her a roasted lamb whose tongue has been cut off,
which is not a pleasant sight. The other guests would of
course understand this gesture or transparent insinuation,
which is almost explicit. This tradition is common, in
small cities and even in Riyadh, among women, who are
careful not to create unpleasant situations.
In some families in Saudi Arabia, it is still common
for people to sit round a tray on the floor. Thus a long
“tablecloth” is spread, on which are placed a large tray.
Round this floor “table”, there sit, knees crossed, or on a
half knee, guests and hosts. In such posture it is considered
bad manners to reveal bare feet. (All women take off their
shoes at the entrance of the room).
Once, my husband and I were invited to a palace in the
capital by a certain prince. The palace was furnished with
the most up-to-date expensive modern furniture. We were
surrounded by the rarest of decoration items. The walls
of the halls were embellished by museum-class artistic
paintings with very expensive frames. Food was served
by elegantly-dressed servants, who carried the most
delicious of dishes in thin, transparent plates whose edges
were decorated with thin strings showing exotic oriental
decorations. In the middle of the “table” was a “tablecloth”
that is embroidered with exquisite drawings of all sorts of
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