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Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s Spouse
flowers. The chandeliers sent forth bright lights that were
reflected on the crystal glasses and the elegant spoons,
forks and table accessories. The atmosphere was saturated
with soft, intoxicating perfumes. Wood and sandalwood
burned in the enameled fireplace, as the spring of that
year was rainy and chilly. The food was excellent, each
course being followed by another
just as tasty if not more
delicious than the previous one.
The topics of discussion were cute and interesting.
In short, that evening was a lovely tune which impinged
strongly on our memory that treasured the breath-taking
view and the exquisite theatrical scene. After a while,
the generous and hospitable host invited us to visit his
country-house outside the city. I must say in all frankness
that I felt at a loss regarding the choice of my dress and
ornaments. For, on the one hand, the trip was a tour in the
desert, and on the other, we would be going to a palace,
anyway. Eventually, I reached a compromise decision and
wore a medium high-heeled shoes. It transpired that the
prince’s house was a real oasis in the middle of a vast
sandy desert that extended as far as one can see. The palace
was hardly visible, as it was plunged amidst a thicket of
trees. The whole atmosphere was filled with a heavy and
strong smell of the blooming lemon trees and other citron
trees. Butterflies kept hopping from one tree to another,
stopping
at intervals on the white, snow-white flowers.
The host invited my husband to accompany him to a
glass bell-shaped building that looked like a garden with
glass walls. In my case, I was invited into the house with
the women. At the vast place sat more than ten women,
180
Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s
Spouse
all of whom wore long dresses that were embroidered
with silk strings of golden colors and looked quite alike,
so that it was difficult to identify the wife of the prince
among them until she herself stepped forward to welcome
me. It seems to me that if I were to meet her somewhere
else I would not recognize her at all. She was an ordinary,
simple woman, wearing casual clothes, her head tied
with a headband. She was quite unlike the proud beauty
that wore jewelry worth millions who received us at her
palace in Riyadh. I learned later on that women always
wore headbands in the presence of elderly women such
as sisters-in-law and mothersin-law, as a sign of respect.
This applies to princesses as well, even the crowned ones,
i.e. their highness the spouses of Saudi kings.
The hostess of the “rural cottage” seated me amidst her
relatives, but did not introduce them to me one by one. But
they of course, knew who the guests were. Their customs
dictate, most probably, that it is not incumbent upon me
to know the name of each one of them. At first, we sipped
coffee; then we split and sat on the floor round a cotton
“tablecloth”. The maids brought the vegetables, fruits,
dairy, sweet drinks and refreshments and loaves of bread,
together with three large plates in which rose heaps of rice
that was mixed with saffron on top of which were place
grilled lambs. This is the traditional Arab food, which is
wholly cooked in large ovens. Each of the women helped
herself with her right-hand fingers to a piece of lamb and
made a ball of meat and rice with her skilful fingers and
shoved it in her mouth. They all talked freely and were
not disturbed by the presence of a foreigner in their midst.