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completed and that points out location of a jewellery shop in the area they found.
In order to make a fastener a craftsman first melts copper, and pours it out into an
industrial facility called raja. After a fusion turns cold and falls into light mass, it
was running through the hadda by simkesh. Hadda is an industrial facility with
various-size holes. As a metal item passed through the holes of this tool from large
to little, it become thinner and got a due size intended by the master. Next
industrial process launched after certain quantity of wire was worked. As an
example of fastener sample gained from 3b square of IV site it is available to
follow this process. Nearly 6-centimeter wire was wrapped in the middle and latter
created a hook being folded together in 8 mm size. Other open ends folded towards
the edges and formed a buttonhole space provided to sew on the garment. Fastener
did not lose its shape though pressed a little. A hooked fastener was usually sewn
on one part of clothes, while buttonhole fastener arranged on another part and they
were worn each other. Although industrial process of fastener samples displayed
from 4c square did not
complete, it is clearly seen that two of them are intended for
buttonhole. Existence of buttonhole site in two sides of one fastener and one part of
the other determines its setting thoroughly.
A great part of clothes decorations included collars and laps. This kind
ornaments are widely spred in whole Azerbaijan. The collars were lined up along
neckband incision of arhaluk, outer garment of women, while laps were arranged
on bottom part of woman shirt forepart. Though wide-spread of collars and laps in
women garment complex was reflected in scientific literature till begining of XIX-
XX centuries, it was impossible to tell that decisively about XVIII garment fund.
Materials obtained from 8a square in IV site are capable to inform usage of this
garment decoration in XVIII century. Ornament was prepared of copper through
mould method. Two hemisphere forgery casts soldered one another and got
a shape
of globe. A handle was tied to its top to sew on garment or wear on chain by solder
way. The product's being very small shows its usage also as a lap. General length
of the lap is 1 sm, diameter is 1 sm. Production of another material was not
finished.
Hooks are elements rousing interest from standpoint of their fixing amid
jewellery products. They were widely used both for head decor and pack of
bundles. The hook intended for head decor was obtained from III site, those for a
bundle were displayed in IV site. The hooks provided for women's head wear, a
turban, are bigger by size and are tied to the chain. While hooks intended for
bundle are of small size and elaborated in a form more simple than copper. Six-
petal flower was patterned only one of them by moulder method. Geometrical
decor element was scraped over one of the hooks by the way of smithery. One end
of every hook contains of gaft, another end of the hollow to tie to the bundle. The
hook was sewn in a corner of the bundle. Four corners of the bundle are folded up
onto each other, the hook corner remains on the top; that corner stretched taut and
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the hook hindered opening of the bundle pierced to a fit place. Outdoor items,
wedding (they are called bundle clothes among the nation) and small dowry things
are usually collected in the bundle, put into the trunk or the niche and wrapped as
an un derwear during going to bathroom. It substituted a bag. Usage of the bundles
till early XX century caused a need to hooks and its production continued.
Display of hooks from XVIII century monument assumes very great
scientific significance from standpoint of following history of this home element.
To recall, this type hooks protected in museum funds belonged to late XIX century.
These materials providing us with opportunity to hold parallels between two
periods play the role of valuable source.
Waistbands had a special place and widely spred in suit of national clothes.
With exception of aged layer of population most men, women and children wore
golden, silver and copper waistbands depended on economic position. Various
types and shapes of waistbands facilitated men's carrying arm, tight fitting of
clothes of women and giving aeasthetical beauty. A waistband belt found from 6th
square is made of silver. Such waistbands belonged to clothes suit of children
prepared and they were consisted of boards fastened on one another through
billows and or collected over the belt. A hollow was opened on the last board to
traverse belt's buttonhole. The top of the belt was decorated by garasavad method
widely spred in Azerbaijani jewellery. By the way, in order to clear up decor
element of the belt it needs restoration. A buttonhole was soldered at bottom. Its
end is threecornered and a rasp exists in opposite part to be traversed to other
board. Its length is 2,8 cm, width is 1,5 cm.
One of well-known waistband types is scale. Such waistbands possesing a
belt combined each other with buttonhole and hook, are usually made of velvet
fabric, and scales of various ornaments created by cast-forge and cast mould
method arranged over it (6-8 scales are used for each waistband). Copper found
from 3b square in IV site was prpared by the method of cast. But manufacture of
the product did not complete. Such moulds are widely used in preparation of
saddle. We can say on the basis of ethnographic materials that handles
and bar base
of caskets and bathroom trunks were composed with decor elements graphically.
Decor element found from 6th square and called “doll” was carved on dowry-
destined trunks as a rule.
Rings and earrings occupy special place among national women
decorations. This type of decor samples obtained from archaeological excavations
cause definite thought despite being in a poor level. Usage of earrings of
zoomorphosis shape in XVIII century attained more of antique archaeological
excavations rouses interest. Earrings found from 8b and 8c squares in IV site prove
continuance of jewellery tradition over long years. According to the archaeological
literature, decor items of zoomorphosis shape were widely spred since Bronze Age.
It was most often connected with primary religious beliefs. The elements directed