139
Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s Spouse
It is a long row of shops and stores that are flooded with
bright lights, whose shop windows are full of various
types and shapes of jewelry. These markets are usually
situated in the old part of the city and occupy an area of
several square kilometers. During the years I have spent in
the Kingdom, I saw many such places, and many a time I
visited one of the oldest markets in the Middle East, Souk
Al-Hamidiyyah in Damascus, which is sixty centimeters
lower than the level of the city streets that have preserved
the spirit of past centuries. Not far from it, is a small silver
market built in the form of a one-storey alabaster palace
in the middle of the courtyard of which are beautiful water
jets. At that place one can buy not only jewelry but also
the most exquisite traditional works of art. I can also
remember the
famous gold market in Baghdad, as well as
the Yemen market that is hidden behind the old walls in
the capital, Sanaa, where textiles are priced according to
their weight and the price of pearls is determined on the
basis of the types of musk. At such places, one can buy and
sell heavy silver coins, including the riyals of the Austrian
Empress Teresa. In the city squares, on Fridays, criminals
condemned to execution are beheaded. And if you dare to
enter the alleys that abound in the various types of goods
and commodities, you will see long rows of gold selling
shops, where one can buy exquisite necklaces made of
gold, silver,
platinum, etc, not to mention false jewelry.
In any case, a visit to the gold market is a must in any
eastern city that has centuries of history behind it. In
Riyadh, one can find several such markets, the most basic
being two that are situated near that same citadel named
140
Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia
Seen by a Diplomat’s
Spouse
Al – Masmak, which was captured by King Abdulaziz in
1902. At that place, the remaining old buildings constitute
sure evidence that in very old times there was active
trading in golden and silver jewelry, precious stones,
swords and daggers, carpets and other handicraft products.
In the depth of this labyrinth we discovered a small shop
where old Azerbaijan carpets were sold. But we could not
obtain a satisfactory and convincing explanation of how
such carpets ended up there. Close to the old market, there
is a compound which is a resting place for the population.
It comprises several buildings separated from one another
by large squares whose floor is paved with marble slabs
and whose edges are planted with royal palm trees. Here
children can play, run, skate and ride their bicycles, while
the parents, most often the fathers, would be resting, sitting
on the empty mastabas that are fixed on the ground.
Entering one of the buildings of the Trade Center, one
finds many shops that sell different varieties of goods. The
shopkeepers welcome visitors warmly, not only because
of the traditional eastern hospitality spirit, but because
such visitors, as seemed to me, were fewer than the shops
themselves. Then you can take the lift to the second floor.
Here you find yourself in a legendary surrounding. At
first sight, you cannot perceive where you are and your
eyes would be dazzled by the golden brightness of the
great abundance of jewelry that cover the walls up and
down. Each selling store looks like a theatre stage wherein
exquisite decorations are exhibited. Instead of the front
walls there hang from the ceiling itself, one or one and
a half meter high golden curtains made of many golden