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meat kept in onion, vinegar or lemon juice before cooking. One of its varieties
is lula kebab which is made of minced meat strung on a ramrod in the form
of "round cutlets". Kebab and lula kebab are served with tomatoes, Bulgarian
pepper, eggplants and potatoes baked over a fire on a ramrod.
Lamb and beef are used to make govurma (roast meat), sajustu doshama,
jizbiz (roasted offals), gavli, dolma, yakhni, bagirbeyin, bozbash (dish made of
chopped meat, pea and potatoes), khash (a dish cooked from the hooves of the
cattle), kalla-pacha (soup prepared from ram's, lamb's or sheep's head and feet)
and various soups. Yakhni and govurma are mentioned in the ancient Turkic
monument of Kitabi Dada Gorgud. Khash is mentioned in written sources of
the 11th-12th centuries. The meat serves as a garnish (gara) in different forms
for pilaf and chilov. In Lachin District, one large dolma meal in cabbage lea-
ves, weighing about 200-350 grams, is served at weddings and funerals. This
custom is also widespread in Gabala and Ismayilli districts of Azerbaijan.
Karabakh cuisine has a lot of vegetarian dishes: sikhma, suyug, kata with
herbs, etc. Flour is used to make khashil, khorra, sum-suma from grain - vari-
ous kinds of hadik, govurga, govut, nukurd, gatmali, ayranli, yalanchi dolma,
siyig, sudlu siyig, yarma khashil, pilafs, chilovs and many more. Legumes are
also used in cuisine.
As a dessert, they prepare various kinds of tar halvah and umaj halvah,
shirin kata, koka, baklava, shakarbura, guymag and govud for holidays and
rituals. Fruits are also served on the table.
As for drinks, a variety of sorbets, khoshabs and drinks prepared on the
basis of bakmaz (boiled juice of mulberries, grapes) are served.
Excellent honey is made from Karabakh herbs. Children had honey, fresh
gaymag or butter for breakfast.
As the sauce, they used the boiled thick pomegranate juice "narsharab",
and pomegranate is also used to prepare the additive "nardacha". This was
recorded by the German traveler Adam Oleary in the 18th century: "Wild gre-
nades are all sour, and a lot of them are near rivers in Karabakh.
"Grains are removed from them, dried and sold in other places under the
name of nardan (nar - pomegranate apple). These grains are consumed in order
to make the meal dark and sour: they are soaked in water and the juice is squ-
eezed from them through linen. They also boil fresh pomegranate juice, pro-
duce and store it. They usually use it to embellish their saracha millet (rice) at
feasts, which makes them pleasantly acidic. They also use fruits of the dyeing
Takhir Amiraslanov, Aynura Amiraslanova
38 ●
wood we know for the same purpose." Such thick sauces are also made from
Cornelian cherries, sloe, zirinj (barberry) and other plants.
The Turkish scientist Dr. Yasar Kalafat writes: "Karabakh cuisine is a brid-
ge between the cuisines of western and eastern Azerbaijani Turks - between
the cuisines of these two parts of Azerbaijan (the author is referring to Iranian
Azerbaijan, where most Azerbaijanis live and the Azerbaijan Republic – T.
A.)." In addition to the diversity of options, there is no difference.
Yasar Kalafat names such Karabakh dishes as:
Soups: dovga, evelik shorba, umaj, arishta shorba, borsch (came from
Slavic cuisine – T. A.), chicken shorba, khash (khash – T. A.) and bozbash.
Dolma (cooked by wrapping round forcemeat mixed with rice in vine lea-
ves or cabbage): dolma made from apples, quince, dough, tomatoes, eggplants,
yarpag (grape leaves - T. A), dolma, cabbage dolma.
Vegetable dishes: from evelik, nettle, green beans, spinach, shomu (sort of
spinach – T. A.), merovga, zirish, mountain coriander, gushappayi, gutabs, kata
with greens, kuku and other dishes with greens.
Kebabs made from potatoes, tomatoes and peppers.
Meat dishes: rennet gutabs, bozartma, basdirma kebab, rib kebab, lula ke-
bab, doyma kebab, tika kebab, fish kebab (sturgeon) and gut kebab.
Sweets: guymag, baklava, halvah, shor gogal, Karabakh kata and kurabye.
Karabakh families went to the mountains to visit pastures and relax in
summer.
The Russian scientist, I. L. Segal, also reported about the holidays of
Karabakh beys in 1902. "In summer, almost all Karabakh beys come to Shusha.
They live here as in their estates in a totally Asian way: they eat and sleep on
the floor strewn with carpets. After the meals, dishes are washed, dried and
placed on wide ledges in the room." Incidentally, Segal also gives information
about Karabakh carpets here - "The main contingent of skilled craftswomen
are Muslims."
In winter, people went to the lowlands, the Castilian ambassador Clavija
recorded in the early 15th century...
"We were told (March 3, 1405) that the ruler Omar Mirassa (Timur's son
Omar Miranshah – T. A.) was in Karabakh. He spends the winter together with
his troops there. This Karabakh is rich in pastures."
He continues to write in his diary about the hospitality of the Karabakh
people.
Karabakh cuisine
● 39
In his diary, he records: "On Sunday, the ambassadors came to the village
of Santgelan (Zangelan - an area in Karabakh – T. A.). We dined in the village
of Tusalar. The local tribe calls itself Turkaman. In each of these villages, the
ambassadors were treated to food. Such is the custom here. The ambassadors
must dismount from their horses and sit down on the carpet. Food was imme-
diately brought for them from all houses. They brought bread, a dish filled with
gatig (yogurt) and usually various rice dishes. If the guests stayed overnight,
then they brought a lot of meat dishes for them. What was brought at the be-
ginning was only aimed at welcoming them."
Like the rest of Azerbaijan, Karabakh was open and hospitable. 160 years
ago, it gave shelter to Armenians who betrayed their former "homeland" - the
Ottoman Empire and the Iranian state. They found new land for themselves.
And there, they erected a monument in honor of the 160th anniversary of the
resettlement of Armenians to Karabakh. But someone who once betrayed will
betray again by habit.
Azerbaijan is doing everything possible today not only to support the one
million Karabakh Azerbaijanis, building modern housing for them and provi-
ding them with free public services, free treatment, free university education
and many other things, but also to protect spiritual and material culture (mu-
sic, folklore, carpet-weaving, etc.) in general and culinary culture in particular
from assimilation.
With the help of the Refugee Committee of the Azerbaijan Republic, the
Ministry of Culture and Tourism collects and studies the culinary heritage of
Karabakh.
On July 20-23, 2011, the Festival of the National Cuisine of Azerbaijan
was also attended by Karabakh cooks from Shusha and Barda. Karabakh chefs
took first place in kebab competitions and third place in pilaf competitions.
In the competition on the "kata", which the Armenians are now appropria-
ting, Tovuz District, which does not border on Karabakh, took first place. Like
Gazakh District, Tovuz is far from Karabakh, but borders on Armenia from
where Armenian "Christians" are still killing innocent civilians - children and
the elderly - in these districts.
In 2011, a culinary team from Karabakh, which represented Azerbaijan in
international championships attended by 32 countries, won a bronze medal in
the team championship. And in the youth culinary championship, a representa-
tive of the Karabakh team won a gold medal.
Takhir Amiraslanov, Aynura Amiraslanova
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