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and daggers.
In the markets, one can see the “Flower Bedouins” who
live in Assir. They are distinguished from others by their
great attraction to the flora of their homeland. The men put
black kuhl on their eyes and prefer multi-colored clothes.
On their heads, they wear diadems or they simply shove
in a bunch of flowers or fragrant herbs under their head
bands. Young bedouins crown their heads with luxurious
bunches, while the older men use modest diadems of
basil, peppermint and wild herbs that grow on the slopes
of mountains. Even in their chest pockets they put small
bunches to give to the first person they meet if his flowers are
withered. They are masters of flower arrangement. I think
they are also involved in the business of perfumes, graze
goats and cultivate flowers and vegetables. I heard that
the Flower Bedouins like dancing to the accompaniment
of the beating of drums under moon light. The women
also embellish themselves with fragrant flowers. Before
marriage, they cover their hair with orange shawls and fix
plants behind their ears. Flower Bedouins use well known
herbs for treating their ailments and prefer vegetables. I
think that such people who live in harmony with nature
must be extremely happy.
The road to Assir is beautiful although the greater part
of the region is tortuous. There are sharp slopes and narrow
paths. But engineers have found unusual solutions. Thus
they dug 172 tunnels in the rocky territory and built 580
bridges that are supported by strong columns of various
heights, by means of which the winding route traverses
one mountain after another. One feels flying over a deep
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abyss between high-rising slopes. I must admit that this
sight is not for the faint-hearted.
In the places where the mountains seem more docile
and less steep, one can see, over the summits and close
to people’s residences, old stone observation towers and
grain stores that are used even these days. These stores
were built a few centuries ago and reflect great know-
how. Thus the grains are preserved for long periods of
time without using any technical devices. We have always
thought of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia as a hot waterless
desert. But this region does not only provide grains for
itself; it also exports them, thanks to the important role
played by the Assir farmers.
We were lucky to see so many important things in
the south-western region of the Kingdom. But the space
available in this book does not permit us to talk about
everything. However, I cannot miss the opportunity of
talking about an important landmark therein.
It is well known that the trade route along the western
and eastern coasts of the Arabian Peninsula were quite
familiar in the second millennium A.D. One of these
routes is known in the West by the name of “the Incense
Road”, which extends from Yemen through the desert and
mountains to Syria, Egypt and Constantinople. Assir was
part of this route, which is known in the Arab world as
the “Elephant Route”. This name is connected with the
memory of the campaign pf the Abyssinian military leader
Abraha in the year 570 A.D. who attempted to invade
Mecca. This route was later used by pilgrims as well.
Many kilometers of this route were paved with long stones
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(this is reminiscent of the China Wall and the Egyptian
pyramids), which stones were smoothed by the feet of
animals that carried commodities and the feet of people
during thousands of years. Caravans used to stop for rest
at caravansaries, some of which can still be seen today.
Travelers used to stretch their tired feet, unload the goods
from the back of tired animals, drink, eat and lie down for
rest. Others, who were more active and talented would
draw on the trees pictures of domestic animals, tigers and
lions, which they had seen on their long journey, as well
a mountain goats, the hunting scenes and recent battles,
together with signs that referred to words or letters.
There are plenty of such exquisite artistic drawings
along the routes of caravans in Assir, most of which have
been studied and go back to the Islamic and pre-Islamic
eras. As to the “Elephant Route” and the rare wells all
along such route, these were buried under stones and
sands, but some have remained and are greatly appreciated
by scientists and knowledge-loving tourists.
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Conclusion
Until the early Twentieth Century, the Kingdom of
Saudi Arabia, with its severe climate, very poor population,
traditional patriarchal social systems and the minimal
potentials for economic development, was considered a
negligible party in which nobody was interested in the
civilized world. Hence, the country’s jump, within a short
time, from the Middle Ages to today’s accomplishments,
excelling developed countries, is, by all measures, nothing
but a miracle. Obviously, the main reason is the discovery
of the black gold, thanks to which the country seemed to
be floating on a sea of oil. However, we cannot tell how
its further development would have been, had it not been
led by the great and strong willed personality of King
Abdulaziz bin Abdul Rahman, “the Father of the Nation”.
For he devoted himself to building the state which he
had established and to strengthen same, by implementing
the plans and projects which had seemed an unrealizable
dream at the time.
However, irrespective of the fact that the flow of
petrodollars, particularly after the Second World War,
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